Pictures from Kibungo

There was a problem uploading some pictures before so I think I've fixed it. Here is the link to Pictures from Kibungo

One Month In....

Officially it’s been a month already! August 29^th at about 8:30am, Christine, Portia and I touched down at Kigali International Airport. Wow! Time has flown. I realize more and more that I am being accustomed to life in Rwanda because I’m writing less and less. It’s becoming less of an adventure and more just “normal.” The children still march up to me, hand outstretch to say “Gooooood Morning…..” (whether its 8am or 3pm). 

 

Work is becoming more like a job now. I’m getting used to the pace and to my role. One of things I want to do is develop a workshop for Math teachers to create and develop sustainable resources. So, I’ve been collecting Fanta (and Coke and Sprite and Primus ) caps to use as counters, integer tiles or whatever. I’ve asked a few restaurants to collect them too. The other day I went into the corner store (doesn’t have a name but we all know the one) and the guy had a bag waiting for me. I had totally forgotten that I asked him. Then today I went for mélange at Moderne and Moses was there. He’s been collecting them for me too. It’s so nice to walk around this town now and say “hello” to the people I know. I also had a great meeting with my charge. One of the things he really wants to develop is a system and skills for head teachers to observe, evaluate and provide feedback for their teachers. So, I’m in the process of developing a workshop to train them in this. I’ve also developed a Needs Assessment for head teachers in four areas: English Language Needs, Methodology Needs, Resource Needs, and School Administration/Whole School Needs.

 

Thursday Epiphane is putting on a workshop for teachers in her diocese. (Some of use work at sector level, some at district – me – and some with the dioceses.) She asked Jason and I to contribute so tonight we were at her house to put it together. Her domestique cooked for us and used nut flour for a sauce. I think I really need to do this to get some protein in my diet. I’ve been eating boiled eggs and peanut butter and of course, when I go for mélange, I’ve had goat. Still….I could use some more. The best part of the evening was the Maple Tea straight from….Canada! Epi is from Ottawa and so it was a treat. I think I just smelled the tea for a while before I ever drank it. Actually at this workshop Christine and Dorothy will come up from Kierhe District and so the Canadians will actually outnumber the Brits. Finally!

 

The house has been so quiet without Tina and cooking for one person is something I am not used to. We have a lot of vegetables that will go unused before market day tomorrow. So, I gave Johnny Boy some carrots. He is so friendly but quite sick. I feel awkward about the whole – having a guard – thing. The thing is, Johnny Boy has been a guard at this house since even before Tina and I were here. So, it would be worse to put him out of a job. Plus, we pay him more than even VSO allows – which is still too low. So, it’s been quiet here but at least I know I’m not alone. Also, I’ve had to kill all the spiders on my own! Like the mother of a spider in the shower yesterday. That would never have happened three years ago. Water has been consistently on for the last 4 or 5 days and electricity has not been off for more than a few hours at a time (even though those house seem to be when I’m home). The water, though is very cloudy and you can smell the metal in it. Things are pretty good. I fill my evenings writing here, reading my book or…as a treat, watching movies. I watched “Role Models” last night which is low brow, ridiculous humor that is necessary every once in while. 

I Wonder if Bats like Blue Rodeo

It's 8pm and the power is out, yet again. Which means it's been dark for a few hours. I have some juice left in the laptop. I have music playing and the bats seem to like it. (Yes, there are bats here) They like Norah Jones currently. I wonder if they like Blue Rodeo. Tomorrow, I think I will try to get the kerosene lamp going because it is more efficient than candles. I just don't love the smell. Or maybe, just maybe, the power will stay on for more than one day! What a novel idea!!

If Stuart Little drives a convertible in America, what does he drive in Rwanda?

Sunday September 27, 2009

Tonight is my first night alone in Rwanda. Tina has gone home for a few weeks and I’m sitting here eating and….just a little bit jumpy. Why? you ask…just read on, friends. Just read on.

 

It was a great weekend! Kigali was actually very overwhelming. I wasn’t used to all the lights (and when I originally got there I thought it was dark!). There was great (and expensive) food everywhere. If I cook for myself in Kibungo, I probably don’t spend more than $20 in a week. I think I spent that over the course of my whole trip to Kigali. But, it was so great to meet up with other volunteers and see how everyone was doing. Christine and Dorothy came back with me to Kibungo as there house is another 45 minutes past me. We spent the night relaxing and ate a big meal before heading off to sleep. That’s when the fun started!

 

Christine shared a room with me but as I was falling asleep under the protective cover of my mosquito net, I hear the familiar “buzz, buzz” of, what the British and Australians call, a Mozzie! Bugger was INSIDE the net. So, trying to not disturb Christine, I turned on the light to find him. It’s the mosquitoes that are out at night that carry malaria. So, I wanted to find her (it’s only the females that carry malaria) before she found me. But to no avail. No worries, I’m sure she’s gone, so I head back to sleep…until….

 

Tina had said she was going to watch a movie and so, if she was too loud, we were to tell her. I started to here her saying “Ah! Get out…get out….” At first I thought it was the movie, until I realize that she was talking to something. I thought it might be a bee or wasp. But it continued and then I heard some banging. So, I got up and – at the last minute - decided to put on my sandals. As soon as I open my door I see it – Stuart Little running away from Tina who is shooing this little black mouse out of the house. (I guess it wasn’t Stuart Little because he is white, and drives a convertible….) So, she grabs the broom from the dodgy room where he has just ran. He’s hiding behind the shelf and then she’s trying to hit him outside and he’s scared and trying to climb the wall. Then he runs toward me and toward back in the rooms, so I jump a little and then block his way and “gently” kick him toward our door, which is locked and we don’t have the key but eventually with feet and broom he manages to get outside to FREEDOM!!! Jean our guard (or Johnny Boy, as he is called) has been staring at these hysterical girls in pjs, kicking the mouse out. We returned to bed, happy that the mouse is safe outside. Then Tina hears a thud. The next morning there was fresh blood in our back yard.

 

The funny thing is that Dorothy heard a little bit of this and Christine slept right through it! How? I don’t know! I got back into bed and had a hard time controlling the giggles. I tried because I didn’t want to wake Christine.

Today was a lazy day of a gourmet breakfast (rolls from Kigali and fruit from Kibungo) and amazing Rwandan coffee. We eventually wandered out for mélange and to the internet café. We ran into Jason and went over for tea. We hid out from the rain and came up with ideas of Zanibar at New Years’s. Tina has gone and now Dorothy and Christine are back home. I guess I’m officially on my own now. Cooking today I found a wasp hanging around the veggies. I swatted it away and couldn’t find it – until I felt something on my leg. There he is! I wasn’t sure if he’d stung me because I’ve never been stung so I don’t know what it feels like. But then I realized that I don’t know if I’m allergic, so I got my phone to call Jason incase my throat swelled up. Don’t think he bit me. I guess I’m officially on my own now. If I’m a little bit jumpy….it’s because I’m wondering what creatures I’ll have to face on my own. Greg the Gecko has moved into my room which will at least keep the mozzies away. 

Umagandu = a chance to reflect

As I sat on the bus from Kibungo to Kigali yesterday, I realized that I’ve really put in a lack luster performance with regards to writing in the blog. I swear I heard a collective sigh of relief from all of you as I put more photos and less words on the screen, but I sort of like writing. It’s too difficult to write online – too much pressure when you know your time is limited. No, I like to write in situations like these: sitting on a comfortable wooden chair, in the shade looking at the beautiful garden of a guest house. Yes, I could see myself doing this often.

 

I having been writing as much lately because, honestly, things aren’t that “new” anymore. I wonder if I’m actually beginning to feel at home in this new culture. I wonder if my culture shock is over. I highly doubt it. There is so much more to experience. But, the day to day of living in Kibungo is just normal now. I adjusting the laudry on the line the other day (this involves bringing out when it’s sunny and back in when the rain threatens, out with sun, in with rain….until three days later it’s dry) and I realized that – this is my life. I was filling up the pot to boil water for our filter (this involves turning on the shower, lifting the pot high so it doesn’t splash anywhere – and I lift it up and down and up and down to give my arms a bit of a morning workout) and I realized that – this is normal. On the bus to Kigali, the banana trees and mud houses and goats and children with dirty school uniforms and women carrying things on their heads I realized that – this is normal. Huh. What’s next? I think I feel now, that I can get into my job and begin work with earnest. Compared to other volunteers I’ve started at a much faster pace, thanks mostly to the fact that Tina is still hear and so I can continue her work. I’ve been working on my workplan and am really excited about what’s to come.

 

So, in Kigali for the weekend and I realized what a city this is. It’s amazing how perspective changes. When I first arrived, even though I’d spend five weeks in South America, I remembered Calgary shopping and thought “There isn’t a lot of choice here.” Now, after having been in Kibungo, I realize there is SO much choice here!! Sure, maybe there is only one type of coconut milk – but at least you can buy it. And there must be at least ten different kinds of shampoo here! I arrived at the program office and ran into most of the volunteers I was to be meeting in the town. I exchanged some novels, ate lunch, made copies of my passport and visa so I can get my resident’s card and then headed to town. I found his little guest house, St. Paul’s, which is cheap and has hot showers and many volunteers stay here. Then to check eamil and meet everyone at Nakumatt. This is the most wonderful place to be! It’s a department store with everything from kettles to sheets to kerosene stoves to bread. It’s open 24hours and you can buy real Colgate toothpaste there. It has everything you could ever want or need. Now, it’s not the size of a Wal-Mart (thankfully, that hasn’t infiltrated Rwandan life yet) but more like the size of a Coles bookstore.  Then we went to Bourbon which a Mzungu/rich Rwandan hang out and, although I’m happy to not be able to go there all the time, it was a nice treat. It’s Rwanda’s answer to Starbucks and truly, when you are there you could be in Canada, England, Switzerland….anywhere!

 

Because this morning is Umagandu (volunteering day),  nothing is open and I can’t leave the guesthouse until about noon without getting picked up by the police. So I managed to buy a single Mocha pouch to put in my room temperature water – and I’m pretending that it’s an IcedCap. I also bought some croissants. My day actually started last night when I found animal poop on my bed. This morning the “animal” showed it’s little face and it was a lizard – yellow and black – walking on MY wall like he owned the place. Then I got a call from Aimey who was coming back from the Stamps game with my old work friends. (The thought of watching a Stamps game made me think of crisp fall weather and yellow leaves on the trees. I was a bit homesick for that….) So, now I’m sitting here writing and reading and waiting for some friends who are staying here to wake up so we can sit some more and wait for noon to be able to leave. Ah the small joys of living in Rwanda. I could be cranky because I’m trapped or I could be happy that I had a hot shower and some time to reflect. I’ve chosen the latter. Wait…and what’s that…there is internet access here? How does that work? Don’t ask questions, Anna, just enjoy!

Retraction

I must post a retraction...I received some feedback regarding my Akagera pictures and have come to discover that there are no Water Buffalos in Africa. Whatever!! But thanks for correcting my huge error.....

A week in review

Another week has flown by and when I look at the calender I realize that I have been gone four weeks. Wow!! Some highlights of the week, in no particular order, will follow - because I have not had time to sit down and write, nor have I had the energy. 

- Our week started with a small electrical fire outside my bedroom window. We didn't realize this and went on to Akagera anyway! We came back to no power and this lasted until Wednesday when it was fixed. Honestly, I was expecting it to take weeks but it was quick. Yay! No power did mean cooking by candle light, couldn't charge phones and computers - but the house was cozy. 

-I experienced my first Rwandan rain of the season. It was insane. I couldn't leave the office and waited until the rain slowed a little. My rain jacket will be no match for it, that's for sure. The red dirt runs like red rivers. 

-Tuesday and Wednesday we did work planning in the office and Thursday I went with Jason to a school to do some observations and training. We observed and met with four teachers of English and Math. I got to a model lesson on integers and I brought Fanta tops to teach positives and negatives (no proper integer tiles here!) The teachers and deputy head were convinced the group work is possible and encourages participation

-Our laundry was done on Tuesday and remained wet until today - we had to hang everything indoors because it's rainy season. Thankfully I brought enough socks and underwear.....

-Thursday Danny and John left to back to England so the house seems a bit empty. Tina and I were going to watch a movie but our house was invaded by flying ants. They were EVERYWHERE. Tina suggested putting a candle in the middle of a bowl of water and no sooner had we done that then the ants began to dive for the light, and fell to their death into the soapy water! Ha ha!!

-Today I'll go to Kigali for the night for some good food, to buy some coffee and peanut butter and to visit with some friends. Saturday morning is Umagandu so not much will be open then. It will be a short but I think needed break from Kibungo. It's funny, though, because this place feels like home and I don't really want to be away for too long.

-I'm suffering from a bit of a cold but it's not malaria or guardia so I'll live!

Still loving life Rwandan style - showers are freezing, kerosene smell is overwhelming, bike rides are amazing, fruit is tasty and the flying ants are all dead....for now!

Akagera National Park

A monitor lizard (aka: "Holy Crap! Is that a crocodile!)

Akagera National Park (How many giraffes can you count?)

Masai Giraffe

Me, in Rwanda

Looking for a water buffalo

Warthogs

Apparently the skin of a Black Mamba

3 hippos, taking a dip

Just waking up from a nap - and he had all these little birds on him.

Family dinner

We saw this red-beaked Pelican but our birdwatcher, Jason, didn't find it funny.

Some sort of eagle. I forget its name

Olive Baboon - no, you don't have to make the joke. I know you're thinking this but I did NOT come to Rwanda to find my missing relatives.

This strange creature was a new discovery at Akagera park. 

This strange creature showed up to drink our Rwandan beer. 

Have access to a modem now and so updated the backlog of pictures....enjoy!

Lazy Sunday

Today there wasn’t much going on.  Jean did not work last night so I got to sleep in. I even left my cell phone in the living room lest I be disturbed from my slumber. I woke up to no water but still made myself some coffee. Then the electricity went out. No worries. It is always bright and sunny so I sat and read for, literally, 2 hours. The water came back on and we showered and decided to walk to St. Joseph’s for mélange and so that I could buy some fresh eggs. By then Danny and his friend from England, John, had arrived but were not quite up for food. The walk was beautiful and quiet. Some of the students I taught on Friday were down at their homes and shouted up, “Anna!” and waved. They were so far away that I could barely find them through the bushes and banana trees. The mélange was huge and we were stuffed. Then a chicken came running in, squawking and slipping on the tiles and hiding under the tables and chairs. What was she hiding from? The man in the big white chefs hat that followed her in. She ran under the legs of some patrons and behind the bar but she was no match for the chef. He scooped her up and took her directly to the….kitchen. As we were walking back Tina looked through the forest and said “Look! There are two other mzungus!” I followed her gaze and laughed. It was Danny and John. Only in Kibungo do mzungus point out other mzungus with excitement only to find out that they are your roommates. 

Tomorrow is a bank holiday so we're heading to Akagera National Park to see animals. I'm so excited. And, Tina let me use her modem so I actually have internet at home!! I feel connected to the world again....

Stayed tuned for pictures of giraffes, hippos and, I hope, an elephant! 

An eventful Saturday

Has it already been three weeks since I arrived in Rwanda? Has it already been four weeks since I arrived in Calgary from Peru? Has it already been almost two months since beginning the Inca Trail? The time seems to have flown by but at the same time I feel like I have been living in Rwanda for a lifetime.

 

I completed my first week of work and with much success. Four days of school visits, one workshop, two partner teaching where I actually did get to do some teaching. I’ll admit that I really do miss being in the classroom. My absolute favourite moment of the week (and maybe I shared this already and if so, I’m sorry), was at a school where the children were not used to seeing mzungus. I went around to greet the students with the headmaster. As we walked in the room, they all stood up and, in unison, said “Good morning, headmaster!” Then he asked them to greet their guest. They weren’t sure what to say and one little girl, bravely said “Good morning, white people!” We laughed. Children are so honest.

 

Friday night, the local university, Unatek, was having its Miss Unatek 2009 competition. That’s right! A beauty pageant right here in Kibungo, Rwanda. Apparently there were awards and the whole evening was in support of gender equality. I don’t know about you, but when I think of gender equality, I usually think of beauty pageants. I think that our sex has come so far in the last 100 years. We have the vote, we have equal pay, we have property rights and we have the opportunity to waltz on a runway with a bikini that just wasn’t there for our great grandmothers. Thank goodness for gender equality!! We decided not to go because it was a real posh affair and we were all feeling pretty skuzzy. So, we went for beers instead at the local corner shop. They have a pub there…and a chicken coop. At least we think they did. We saw chickens being taken in a clucking and squawking like mad. Then it stopped. Then we smelled bar-b-que. Uh oh. I guess the chicken won’t be crossing the road anymore.

 

This morning I met another volunteer from Nyakarambi. It’s about a forty minutes by bus and she was here to do some banking and shopping. We went to the corner store and the workers were hungover and still cleaning up from the night before. We went back to Nyakarambi together because our other volunteer friend has been really sick. They thought she has malaria and was in the hospital overnight. Turns out it isn’t malaria, thankfully, but still a really bad infection of some sort. She also can’t move into her house because the place is overrun with bats. So she’s staying in Nyakarambi until that is sorted out and was told to take the week off work to recover from her illness. Overall, she has had a terrible start to her Rwandan experience. So I decided to go for a visit. When I got there, Dorothy realized she had water working in the back and so we filled up jerry cans and buckets. She has no running water inside, and no indoor bathroom like we do, so it was exciting. I had to laugh because only in Rwanda do you go to visit a friend and before you’re offered a cup of tea or drink, you’re running around filling jerry cans. We made a lovely lunch and then she began to receive visitors. Apparently, the neighbours frequently just walk right into her house and sit down! One of the groups were two teenage girls who were orphaned by the genocide and adopted by the neighbours. They came in because they were babysitting 6 month old twin girls. So we played with them for a while. At 4 I caught my bus because I’m not ready to ride the bus in the dark alone, yet. Nyakarambi is about 1 hour from the Tanzanian boarder and as we waited a convoy of long haul trucks barreled down the road passed us. Then a convoy of UN trucks and tanks, about 20 long haul trucks with the UN vehicles on the back, drove passed us. They were all out of Tanzania and followed by a truck of 6 Tanzanian military police. We speculated they were going to the Congo but weren’t sure. My bus came and eventually caught up with the convoy. The MPs would not let the bus driver pass. He stayed in the left lane the entire time. Our bus, and another, proceeded to spend the next hour trying to get passed him and just when our driver was about it, the MPs pulled infront again. I wasn’t so keen about playing road games with the Tanzanian army because, you know, they have guns and everything. At one stop I tried to buy some fruit out of the window and the driver began to drive away until the locals said “Something….something…mzungu…” until he stopped. I arrived home to a near flood in the bathroom. The water had been off most of the day and I think the tap was left on. Water EVERYWHERE! I had to laugh when, after I cleaned it up, realized that it did not bother me in the least to clean up the mess. At least we had water!

 

I made fresh yummy guacamole for supper and read for a while. Tina arrived back and Jason and a friend of his who is a guide in northern Rwanda came over for a marshmallow roast. We set up the fire pit in the back, whittled some sticks and roasted marshmallows under the stars. Well, there were no stars as it was cloudy. I learned that I was living with an actual circus performer too - Tina the Incredible Fire Breather! We were treated to fire breathing – at the expense of a tea towel, some flour and some kerosene. But what a show! We tried to convince Jason of the beauty of a roasted marshmallow and, as a Canadian, I felt I was an expert on the subject. A perfect marshmallow can be roasted three times. The first two times you slide the perfectly goldent skin off, plop it in your mouth and continue. We even tried to make smores with Mars bars and cookies. I described the variation of putting a bit of Baileys in your first layer but had to stop as a bottle of Baileys is about the cost of a week’s salary. I realized at some point that I hadn’t roasted a marshmallow in about 2 years and thought it was funny that I had to come all the way to Rwanda to do it. 

Pictures: An eventful Saturday

Our lunch - all VSO are experts on cooking on kerosene

The bathroom in Nyakarambi. I was disappointed when I did not, indeed, find a photocopier next to the toilet.

Cute little visitors.

Sisterly love.

VSO volunteers AND babysitters!

And back to Kibungo for a light show.....

Tina in preparation: 1) Flour 2) Kerosene 3) FIRE!

I wonder what our neighbours thought?

Tina, Marcel, Jason

Roasting Marshmallows in Rwanda!

The Hokey-Pokey IS what it's really all about!

September 17, 2009

Today was another great day. A trip along the same road until we turn and descend down the mountain. Steep, rocky, steep cliffs to the left…you know, that sort of thing. I trust Patrick, the driver, and relax and enjoy the ride. We played chicken with, goats (not chickens) but they eventually moved. I arrived to the school and observed a few lessons. Of course the students kept saying “Tina! Tina” because they thought I was her. Apparently we look the same. The lessons were typical: write on the board, students repeat (this could be anything from a letter, a fraction, a word or a sentence) and they do this for 20 minutes or so. Then they write it all down. End of lesson. Lunch time came and I stayed in the office until word got around to the double shift afternoon group that a Mzungu was on campus. They began peeking in and literally climbing the walls outside and hanging on the window bars to catch a glimpse. They were so shy, except for a few who extended their hands to say “Good afternoon.” I tried to go back into work but they continued to peek and try to see me. So, if you can’t beat them, join them! I walked out and at this point there were about 25 little ones all giggling and smiling. So, I suggested we make a big circle. The older ones help the younger ones. I had everyone raise their right hand. I went around the circle to check and we “put our right hands in” (giggle, giggle), “put our right hands out” (giggle, giggle), “put our right hands in” (giggle, giggle) and “shake it all about!” (hysterical laughter) “do the hokey pokey” (giggle, giggle) and “turn yourself about” (more hysterical laughter) “that’s what it’s all about!” CLAP (hysterical laughter, jumping and smiles all around). We must have played this for about 30 minutes and our group of 25 grew to about 60 or 70. Eventually they all had to go to class but it was fun while it lasted and I believe that some students now know their foot from their hand and, if I’m lucky, their left from their right. The question is, do they know a hokey from a pokey? At the afternoon assembly, the deputy headmaster (who had no seen me playing with them) as them (in Kinyarwanda) if they knew my name. I think he expected them to call me Tina. They all shouted “Yego!” in unison, and then when he asked me what it was, they shouted “Anna!” He was a little surpsied but the children and I got a laugh out of it. I trained the teachers after lunch and considering one teacher was teaching prepositions, I suggested singing the hokey-pokey and taught it to the teachers, who giggled as much as the students. They loved it and I hope they will try it with the students. I come back next week so they may. And may, they will know a hokey from a pokey and they can teach me – because I certainly do not!

School Visit

Running from the rain! Classes halt then because you can't hear for the tin roofs

Smile!

We're Not In Kansas Anymore

Wednesday September 16, 2009

 

Last night we all went to Epi’s house for some Mutzig (yummy Rwandan beer – although most “true” Rwandan drink Primus) to visit and play Headbanz – well, the homemade version. You know the one. Put a word to your forehead and ask questions until you guess what it is. Believe it or not, I was able to guess African Clawless Otter from that. We saw it last weekend and Jason, who would kick Alec Trebek’s ass in the “Birds and Botany” category, thought I wouldn’t be able to get it. AS IF! I’d know an African Clawless Otter anywhere…..

 

This morning Patrick came to get me at 8:30am and we headed more into the interior today. I was much more relaxed and managed to take my hands off the back grips for most of the ride. It’s probably safer anyway because if I’m holding, and I got flying off, I’m bound to break my fingers and wrists as well as my neck. I’d rather save my fingers, thank you. But I was much more relaxed and it was more of a workout on my abs and core stability – which will become AWESOME by the end of this. We bounced along red dirt roads, pass mud huts (the kind you all thought I’d be living in if I moved here). I got to the school an hour later to the headmaster who is so enthusiastic and supportive that I was happy Tina arranged this to be our first official school visit. Essentially, my role at schools is to observe lessons and provide feedback, suggestions and/or training.

 

Today was a challenge because 4 teachers were away at Gacaca courts. These courts are administered by “judges” who are, from what I can tell, leaders in the community to provide justice to people accused of crime the genocide. (Imagine, the genocide happened 15 years ago, and these courts are still going on!) But the impact of this is that four teachers (of a staff of only 13, which means about 25%!) and there are no substitute teachers. This meant the P6 class (grade 6) was left on their own with one boy incharge. I spoke with them and asked them their ages, names etc. The oldest in this class was 19! There was only one 12 year old and most were about 15. The absence of these teachers also meant that the P1 class had about 70 little ones in it. I managed to evaluate three lesson, and then provide some feed back to the entire staff (I was planning to advise only 2 or 3, but the headmaster set it from for everyone). We sang a song, and I gave some ideas.  It was hard because the rain had started and it I had to shout over the sound of raindrops on the tin roof. Teaching in the classroom effectively stops then too. I know how I hated interruptions when I was teaching (I was always so cranky to have my “lesson” disturbed – as you all know!) so I can’t imagine keeping classroom control in these conditions. The teachers do, though, and I’m learning from them too.

 

I felt a little bit like Dorothy being dropped in the middle of  Munckhin Land. I got off my bike and it was very quiet. I heard a lot of giggling. The headmaster appeared, like the Good Witch, to say hello. As he did that many children began to come out of their classes (it was break time) and come closer, and closer, and closer to me. As soon as I would turn to put my hand out they would scatter away, giggling like there was no tomorrow. Then they would creep back. I was introduced to many teachers and the herd of children – I’m talking of about 300!!! – followed us wherever we went. They would rub my arm – to get the whiteness off…. Of course none of the teaching was helped by the mzungu that showed up.  They are so innocent and so curious that it’s so loveable. They love to shake your hand and give high fives – which kid doesn’t, really? I was finishing up with the teachers when my “pilot” (as they call moto drivers) arrived to get me. I opened the door of the office to see all the little munchkins scatter and gather around the moto. I put on my helmet, gave a few high fives and we started to drive. The children followed, waving “bye – bye” and ran after us until their little legs got too tired. I was waiting for them to all break out in song “Follow the yellow brick road, follow the yellow brick road! Follow, follow, follow, follow, follow the yellow brick road!” (But they would have to change it to follow the red muddy road….)

 

Now, if only I knew where I put my ruby slippers. Oh, there they are! Oh, no, wait. That red colour is just the dust from the roads….

September 14 and 15th

Monday September 14, 2009

 

Today was the first day I felt I was an employee of Ngoma District. Jason, Tina and I met at the office at 8am and briefly met with the Director of Education, Victor, to set a time to meet with him about our work plan. Then we walked to Kabare I school. This is Suzanne’s school and the same one I was at last week. The teachers and students were so welcoming! As soon as the “bell” when student poured into the center yard and if I was to close my eyes I could swear it was recess at my school last year. The sound was identical. Shouting and laughing! Little boys will march right up to you with their hands outstretch for a handshake and yell “Gooooooddd Moorrrrnnnning!” We all met on the field for an assembly where Suzanne and Jean Paul (the English teacher) formally welcomed us. We also had a welcome from an older student. We had traditional dancing and singing. And don’t the kids love it when they pull the mzungus up to dance with them! I saw, again, another universal trait in students. During assemblies they all want to sit near their friends and crowd to get the best seat – and teacher try to get them to “face the front and be quiet.” After Kabare we headed to three more schools for visits – one involved my first “long” motorbike ride. It was dodgy at parts – the parts where my driver and Jason’s driver seemed to be competing against one another. But I made it AND I found another use for a pashmina (the world’s BEST travelling item!). Wrap it around your head before you put on the moto driver’s shared helmet to avoid getting lice.

 

 We arrived in Kibungo to find that….what’s that?....the bank had opened? No! YES!!!! So I could actually withdraw some of my first pay cheque. Up to the internet café to upload pictures from the weekend and when I ran into Danny, he’d given me the fantastic news that the water was off – again. But I headed home, made dinner (pasta with garlic toast – great to have a toaster because you can’t really tell that bread has gone stale) and toast with chocolate spread (like Nutella but Rwandan version) for dessert. In the middle of dessert we heard the beautiful sound of the running toilet and we knew we had water again! So all three of use queued for the shower. It was a great shower. Did I tell that you it is such a great shower that it has two functions? Steady stream of cold water or, if you so desire, a sprinkle of water if you put the missing piece back on. Here at Chez Kibungo, we like to ensure our guests have all the luxuries they would at home. Of course, when the water comes back on, sometimes is full of dirt at the beginning. During the shower all I could see was brown water and thought, oh no…..until I realized that it was the Rwandan red dust (which I will hence forth begin to call, simply, Rwandust) slowly washing off of my tired feet.

 

The best part of my day: Meeting three siblings on my way home without stretch hands. They may have been 4, 6 and 8 “Gooooood Evvveeennning” they said as we shook hands. “Where are you going?” they asked. “I am going home.” Then, noticing that they are carrying jerry cans I asked them “Are you going to get water?” (And to my amazement, they UNDERSTOOD!). “Yes.” So, I asked them “Where are getting water?” They told me “Up the hill.” I told them to have a good evening and told them that they spoke very good English. Well, wasn’t that the best thing I could have said. I got a few more handshakes, a high five and two thumbs up – complete with three beautiful and big grins.

 

 

Tuesday September 15, 2009

 

Wake up to running water and not at 5:30am! Jean must not have been there last night to wake me up with his sweep, sweep, sweeping. Woke up at 6:30. Our moto drivers were going to be there at 7:30 to take us to Rukira school. Considered boiling a pot of water for our filter but changed my mind. Made oatmeal, a cup of coffee and toast. Danny had brought good bread from Kigali – not the brick they call bread from Kibungo. The motos pull up and we grab what we need (or what Tina has told me to bring to every workshop) including: snack, water, rain jacket, first aid kit, toilet paper, hand sanitizer and workshop materials. Tina also brings her IPod to share with the driver but I’m still not confident enough. I grab my pink helmet, hop on and we’re off!

 

We head down the highway toward Tanzania and a speed that can’t be quanitified because of the lack of spedomoters on, apparently, every vehicle in the country. We’re going faster than any other moving vehicle – which is only a few trucks and bikes carrying plantains going up hill. We are heading downhill and the twists and the turns require some strategic leaning. I wasn’t nervous at all – not even when the driver too BOTH HANDS! off the handle bars to wipe them on a towel. We even came up on a cyclist (a proper, Lance Armstrong type cyclist) and passed him. The next thing I new, I looked over and there he was, right along with us. We much have been going close to 80km/hour. We exit the highway to take a short cut which was more like a mountain bike trail and then up a steep dusty hill and I’m struggling to stay on. In Rwanda, it’s a faux pas to hold on to the driver, so it means you have to hold on the back. We pass through villages and banana tree after banana tree. We get to Rukira village and finally the school.

 

The workshop was great! In my job, I (and Tina until December) are responsible for training teachers and improving teaching techniques for 63 schools. Jason is responsible for a sector within the district (4 schools) and so we’ll be working together for some of our job. For today, 18 teachers from all over the region came to work with us. Jason and I spent our time observing, as Tina is a pro and I have a lot to learn. The focus of this lesson was teaching spelling to younger students. The goal is to move teachers away from “chalk and talk” but have more participatory approaches (games, using pictures, songs, movement) and including desk placement, peer assessment, questioning techniques etc. Basically, get the kids involved in their own learning. They day was fabulous! I even taught a game.  We know it as “hangman” but this isn’t appropriate for Rwanda so I changed it to “The Hungry Crocodile.” All the teachers participated and were excited to learn different approaches to learning. During the lesson, I saw the first Rwandan rain of the upcoming “short rainy season.” All of a sudden, there was pelting down rain with strong wings, thunder and lightening. Imagine a Calgary rainstorm in the heat of July. Like that, but longer – and with holes in the roof and windows missing from the classroom! All of a sudden the teachers on one side had to get up and move because they were all getting soaked. This is the same environment with which the students have to learn.

 

Which brings me to the school. I’d like to take a minute to describe the physical plant of schools in Rwanda. Usually there are many buildings which house classrooms. All classrooms have doors opening to the outside. Many schools have ditches to catch the water. The roofs are made of tin and the walls, brick or mud (like adobe). Desks are wooden benches that seat 2 or 3 older students but up to 5 little ones. That’s it. There is no electricity – so overhead projectors, computers or lights are obsolete. There is always a chalkboard – which is less a board and more a wall that has been painted with that blackboard paint which never erases properly. No white boards, no bulletin boards. There is no student work up, no posters, most have no maps, no flags, no signs that say “Welcome!” or (as in my old classroom) no political cartoons. There is a teacher desk but because teachers move classes, it it a large bare table. The buildings usually face a courtyard which is a large dirt field. There is always a Rwandan flag. Most schools have a staff room, which includes some resources, a schedule and maybe a few desks. There are no photocopiers, no fridges, no paper cutters or laminators, no couches, no ATA newsletters that no one reads anyway. There are no washrooms. For those, friends, you must visit the pit latrine out back complete with a hole in the ground and flies buzzing around your arse. But what a Rwanda school lacks in luxuries (and for us, necessities) they make up for in eager and willing teachers who care about their students the same way you or I would back home. The desire to help children learn is there and its obvious.

 

On my moto journey back to the town, I reflected on the day and said to myself “I’m cruising around Rwanda on a motorbike doing a job that I love!” How lucky am I? Very. I guess I can live with the red dusty that covers my feet, my clothes and most recently, found its way under my nails. Yup, I’m very lucky.

Pictures: Training at Rukira School

Kids at Rukira School

Our motos parked outside the school

Writing words on your neighbour's back

Teachers having fun.

My first teacher training experience in Rwanda!

Children at Rukira School out at a break.

Jason teaching relay dictation.

"Hey! What are you guys doing in there?"

Before the sun sets!

Great day driving through rural Rwanda today. I only have a few mintues of typing because the sun has started to set (at 5:45) and it goes down fast. The bank was open (after 5 days because, according the manager, they had work to do!) so I have money and would rather not walk in the dark with it all. But, I ran into Danny and our water has gone off -- AGAIN. I would have like a shower after the dusty roads on motorbikes. Will start taking pictures at work but now, trying to establish relationships first. Tomorrow we are donig a workshop which means an hour bike ride to the village. Life is different, but life is good. Had a great weekend and posted some pictures below -- along with the water saga.

Miss you all!

Weekend life (and Monday morning) in the Eastern Province

I just spent the last five minutes sitting here in my living room watching our two geckos compete from prime eating territory. One had its tail arched and the “click, click, click” sound are fighting words. Eventually that one realized there were enough bugs in our house that there was no need to fight it out. Plenty to go around boys! He just meandered on top of his roommate to find another hunting ground. Today is Sunday and very relaxing. After Jean, our guard, was at his usually 5:30 sweeping ritual, I fell back asleep. And then I got a 6:30am text from Aimey (very welcome), after which I fell back asleep again. I eventually woke up at 8:30 and spent another hour staring up at my mosquito net before deciding I should make the most of my day. Now, what “make the most” actually means I’m not too sure. I made myself some coffee and sat and read for a good 2 hours! I gave up on Brick Lane. Wasn’t enjoying it at all. So, I started Water For Elephants and am already happy I brought it from home. Today was already a good day. Well, then the wind picked up and because all our windows and doors are open, things started blowing and the doors started slamming. No sooner had I I got up to get a rock to prop it open when I caught a glimpse of Tina hurling bricks onto the roof of one of the out buildings. I went out to help because I could clearly see that the tin roof was blowing up and needed to be weighed down. She told me that last year the wind came up and left 20,000 people without roofs! Okay, back to enjoying my day – until Tina told me that our water has gone off. This has happened a few times since I’ve been here and it never lasts more than a few hours. I originally was annoyed at the sound of our “running” toilet but it’s a welcome sign because it means the water is on. However, it could last weeks – or so I’ve been told. Last night I even had plans to top up our jerry cans this morning. Lesson number one: When you think your jerry cans need topping up, don’t wait until tomorrow! Do it then! I have faith (pray with me here, folks) that the water will go back on today or at least tomorrow.

Regardless of the water situation, I decided to put on my sneakers and get some exercise. That doesn’t not mean running – as I think the only time one should run is when one is being chased or if you’re life is in danger because of an erupting volcano or something like that. And even then, everyone KNOWS that lava does not move that fast so a light jog would, I’m sure, be sufficient. No, I was going for a walk. I put on my sneakers which are barely a year and a half old but still a bright white thanks, in part, to the Talisman centre and the fact that I never do exercise outside. Why would I? Of course, three steps into my walk they were covered by the red dirt of Rwanda and the idea of keeping my shoes clean become a novelty (sort of like the idea of running water). The walk was pleasant enough and I was greeted often by a “Mzungu Bite!” (Not bite as in bite a piece of cake, but bitte as in the German “thanks”). It’s a slang “hello” and used by young people. (Thank God, they don’t think I’m old!) I came back hoping that the water had turned on and was disappointed to find out that, no, we’re still waterless. But happy to find out that Tina was making stew for lunch. Yum! Today is a good day.

Yesterday, was also a good day. A trip the bank to withdraw some money from the account that I “opened” on Wednesday. Well, I think it was too much to ask for the bank to be open during its regular 8am -11am Saturday hours. It’s been closed since Thursday due to a system failure and, as far as I can see, has no plans to open. That was okay because I have some money left. We went to the market to buy the only vegetables and fruits it looks like I’ll be eating in the next year – and even then Tina has told me that the variety is remarkably higher now than it usually is. We bought tomatoes, carrots, garlic (to add to our avocado, green beans, potato and peppers already at home) and we bought passion fruit, lemony-orange things, Japanese tomatoes and pineapple (to add to our bananas). I bought a pair of flip flops to wear around the house but need to disinfect them, as I’m sure they are used.

Then we decided to catch a bus to Kayonza where we hoped to jump on a moto to take us to Lake Muhazi. Well, we lucked out because when we arrived at Kayonza we were able to grab a bus which is much cheaper, even if we did pay the mzungu price. We stopped at Jambo Beach where Tina and I ate most our lunch without Jason who was having the time of his life watching birds. We felt very relaxed and then we wandered down the road (it’s actually the road to Uganda) to visit the Seeds of Peace guesthouse. We ran into another volunteer and sat on the grass and chatted. None of us swam for fear of bilharzia. Back home the driver dropped Tina and I off right in front of our house. Before we made a fruit salad for dinner, we redecorated the kitchen. We put in an extra shelf and Tina brought in a cloth wall hanging with pictures of her neighbourhood in London. After which I told her that I had a gigantic Canadian flag that my mom gave me. She was so excited (she loves Canada – who doesn’t?, Really) and we put that up to cover most of the holes. We also put up a Bolivia postcard I brought to cover the other holes. That will be our decorating style – we’re asking all of you to send post cards to cover up the holes in our kitchen. Email me for my address, if you want!

Later on….

We just returned from a great dinner at Jason’s. You can tell this guy has done this before. He lived two years in Eritrea and so is good at this “living with no fridge, one pan, one burner, wash all your food in iodine, boil all your water” thing. He had Tina and Suzanne and I over for supper. Tina is a GENIUS because she suggested we bring over a towel and shampoo in case his water is working. Well, not only is it was it working but he must have the best shower in all of Kibungo. Oh, don’t get your hopes up. It wasn’t hot – it was still FREEZING – but it sprayed evenly and just with the right amount of pressure (unlike our pouring stream of cold water). We showered and were served sweet and sour stir fried vegetables over rice with CHOCOLATE for dessert. The genius thing was that he (and Tina and I imagine every other experience volunteer) has packets of powered sauces (curry, sweet and sour etc.) that they brought from home. Genius. We walked home in the PITCH BLACK and stopped at the store to buy bread. The men there know us now (are there any other mzungu girls in Kibungo) and they were all drinking, offering us Rwandan whiskey. Thanks, but no thanks. Now I’m ready for bed, clean and ready to face my first whole week working in Rwanda.

Much later on…..like 8 hours later (Monday morning)

Thank you to Jean for his 5:30 sweep, sweep, sweeping for if it wasn’t for him I may not have heard the leaking toilet. At precisely 5:41 am I heard the best sound I’ve ever heard. Our toilet started to run. Of course I debated waiting the hour before getting up but realized that I learned my first Rwandan lesson: DON’T WAIT! So as I put my sandals on I heard that Tina had the same idea. The shower was already running for us to fill our jerry cans, our buckets, our basins and our bottles. Our water comes down in one straight stream – usually – but because of this pressure it was splashing everywhere. I took one jerry can outside because the tap there has much better pressure. Pressure is an understatement. There I am at 5:45 in the morning trying to fill up this HEAVY jerry can with water spraying and gushing everywhere. I’m getting soaked and I think more water is ending up on me than in the can. But, forty-five minutes later we managed to get everything filled up. So, I’ve decided to not go back to bed but to stay up, drink a coffee and read my book. Looks like this week is already looking good!

I didn't know I could get my hair cut at a hair saloon....and other wacky and interesting things about Rwanda

I have seen many saloons around Rwanda and thought, “This is fantastic! A Western style saloon and I don’t even have to wait for Stampede!” But no, this was a hair salon. At first I thought it was spelling mistake but I believe this is how Rwandans spell it. Is it a mistake? Well, not necessarily. I mean, surely our American friends don’t think we “misspell” the words neighbour, favour, and ….oh what are those red squiggly lines on my screen? Rwandans may misspell salon but they sure know how to spell bilharzia! Even the P5 English textbook tells the story of “Billy The Bilharzia Worm” and informs children about the nasty parasite and how to avoid become infected. I must tell you that even I learned something about how it is formed and basically that I shouldn’t pee in, drink from, or swim in infected lakes.

But for these wacky bits, Rwanda has certainly lived up to its reputation as a friendly country. All the children coming to and from school smile and great you with a drawn out “Good morning!” It sounds more like “Goooood Morrrrrning”. Now, irrespective of that fact that it is usually the afternoon when they are greeting me, it’s so lovely to be welcomed into the community. “Welcomed” may be a strong word. I think right now I’m just a mzungu novelty. The children touch my skin, presumably to see if my whiteness will rub off. They love to practice their English. “How old are you?” and “Where are you going?” must have been taught this week in class because they are experts at asking. “I am 30” I say or “I am going home” does not register with them as any sort of answer because they don’t understand what I’m saying. They don’t actually care how old I am (but now you all know…) and they don’t really care where I’m going, they are just being friendly. Rwandans are friendly with each other too. I had done a lot of reading about Rwanda before I came so I expected to see men holding hands but didn’t realize just how friendly they were with one another. Hands intertwined as they walk, arms around each other, or sitting with arms and legs intertwined.

Friendliness has its downsides too. Today I began cooking at 6:30pm and it was already dark. I was alone in the house and we try to keep all lights off because electricity is expensive. So, I began cooking and made sure the window to our back was open so the place doesn’t smell (that much) of kerosene – not to mention the fact that breathing it in cannot be good for our health. Our yard is completely secure with no one able to get in or out with a key. All of a sudden I heard a quiet voice through the open window says “Mwirirwe.” I jumped about thirteen feet, dropped what I was chopping and realized my heart had stopped. I stared out into the darkness but could see nothing. Then I remembered that it was probably our guard. Now, I didn’t go out to find out but just responded with a friendly “Mwiriwe” back. Unfortunately I don’t know how to say “You scared the SHIT out of me!” in Kinyarwanda.

Okay maybe friendliness isn’t all that wacky. In fact, I think it’s downright comforting to know that I’ll be spending a year in a country where I’m more or less welcome. Be sure, though, that in the next year I’m sure I’m bound to find truly wacky and interesting things.

Pictures from Kibungo

Danny (left), me, Jason (right) First meal inKibungo

Ying (left) and Yang (right)

Jason birdwatching and he would be very upset that I don't know the name of the above bird!

Cooking on the keronsene stove. I can now light it with one match and can do it without lighting my hair on fire!

Some bird in Jambo Beach, Eastern Rwanda

Jason, Suzanne, Anna, Victor, Eliane - my new work family in Rwanda!
My office in Ngoma district!
My first meal in Kibungo!

Pictures of my beautiful abode!

Living Room with our landlords furniture. The couches don't have feels and are lovely to sit on Sunday mornings when you hear the sounds of music outside.
Our kitchen. Note keronsene stove to the bottom left, jerry can on the right. We recently modernized with a Canadian flag to cover the holes and another shelf. Woo hoo.
The front of our house, which is hidden from the street by a gate. My room is the far one on the right.
The back.
The view out ourliving room to our front yard. Note large gate.
My room. I've added a Rwandan basket for my trash. The candle burning is great for trapping bugs. I found a dead one in it recently.
Note the lovely imported mosquito net (made in China, not impregnated...) but it keeps the bugs out. Note the teleophone on the floor by my bed. Don't know why it is there. There is not dial tone. But Tina did tell me that it ran once last year.
The bathroom. Beautiful view outside makes up for lack of decor inside. Note jerry can and bucket full of emergency water.
Our backyard. Yes, those are banana trees out there.
More of our backyard. The buildings are a traditional African kitchen and where we put our trash. I stay away from it.....