Thursday, October 29, 2009

A Week in Review

On our wall, Tina created a spot for us to put pictures of family and friends. Look who wanted to meet my parents! I don't know if this is Ying or Yang. I can never tell them apart! (Not my parents....I meant the geckos....)


A Week in Review

I thought I would add this bit for those of you – and there are a few – who I know ask my family and Aimey how I’m doing to which they will inevitably respond “Check the blog!” But I know you. You’re busy. Things are going on and, honestly, unless you’re super committed – do you really have time to sit infront of the computer and read page after page of useless rambling? I also know that some of you have a Friday routine of trying to read everything that’s happened but maybe you don’t always have the time. I’m not that self absorbed to think people read this much. Let’s face it….if you had a blog, would I read it? Maybe. If it was as wordy and long as this, probably not. I’m not offended….I’ve said a million times, this is mostly for me. Actually, truth be told, I’ve very, very flattered that you read this. Once in a while I’ll get an email from someone that says they like it. Thanks. That means a lot. But I digress… I will try, internet connection permitting, to do this on Fridays (well Thursday night maybe) to give you as snapshot of the week. A summary, if you will, of the wacky and crazy things going on. If you want to read more – fill your boots!

 

Start of the week – post office to get some books from Amazon. Still wondering where Aimey’s parcel (avec Halloween candy) is. Boo. Tuesday (I think), burned my finger on stove. Huge blister. Ew. Wednesday massive water leak – or geyser – appeared in my bathroom. Shut off water. Waited to have it fixed. Invented low tech water tap. Very proud. Hosted dinner with friends. Said friends chased rat out of my house. Guard has sick wife. Needed advance. Said thank you with 3 heads of a cabbage. What do I do with three heads of cabbage? Confirmatory visit with VSO staff to make sure I’m settling in. National exams at schools means armed guards and more guns in the same room as me than I’m truly comfortable with. Friday (hasn’t arrived yet), I had to Kigali for a meeting followed by a weekend in the city and then In Country Training for the week. 

It flushes!

October 29, 2009

I’m not sure if the electrical tape worked or not because I haven’t turned the water back on. I will do if it’s not fixed soon but I would like to have water. How doesn’t one shower without? Well, either you don’t – which gets smelly and awkward because people stop talking to you if you smell – or you do a 1.5litre body shower. Nil is a brand of water here and the bottles are useful to store up water in case of shortages or…having to turn off you water. Basically, I can wet, wash and rinse all with 1.5 litres of water. I wonder how much my shower used at home? Either way, that’s that. I did come up with a genius invention though. Truth be told, it was borrowed from my cousin, Dee, the girl guide who showed us how to having a “tap” out of a Javex bottle. I’ve done the same thing using a Nil bottle and it involves a small hole at the bottom of a full bottle. When the tap is closed the pressure keeps the water in, when you twist the tap open the water comes out! It’s a very small, slow stream, mind you. But it works! So, that’s Dee --- and yes, Ang, I’m sure there is some science behind it but I’m a social studies teacher so I don’t really care! Ha ha!

Last night Suzanne and Jason came over for supper. Suzanne has just returned from London where her school has a partner school. We had a great meal, during a massive rain storm, Jason chased a rat out of the living room and Suzanne was able to talk to my guard, Jean, in Kinyarwanda. He needed money. And advance. He’s very honest and keeps coming to work and will pay the money back out of his next salary. Jean and his wife are both HIV positive. I believe that all seven children are too. He has had this job long before Tina even arrived here. His wife is sick and in the hospital now so he needed money for that. So tonight, Jean arrived with a bag of 3 heads of cabbage for me as a gift. He grows them himself and brought it to say thank you. This man, who has so little, and so many children and a sick wife still found it in his heart to bring me a gift. Wow. Now if only I knew what to do with so much cabbage….

Today was my meeting with my Program Manager from VSO, my boss (Victor) and Frodauld (the charge of Education). The meeting was very good although, I did find out that Victor would be leaving to take another job and Froduald is staying. I’m very happy that Frodauld is staying because he has a really good vision for education. In the afternoon I had to finalize the letter to go to teachers for a training in November. The national exams had finished. You know, at home, Provincial Achievement Tests are sent to schools and stored in a locked office or cupboard. They are “secure.” Well, Alberta Ed has nothing on Rwanda. On Monday a large army truck with a sign in the front marked “National Exam Council of Rwanda” pulled up. The exams were stored in the office in the presence of an armed police officer – and when I say armed I mean with a large machine gun!!  These armed guards stay with the exams for three days, day and night, until they are returned to the district office and sent to Kigali. They take this security things seriously. I did have a good talk with Frodauld about the purpose of the exams though. Before 1994, secondary schools could be very selective about who they allowed in. Now, with standardized tests, it has evened the playing field and eliminated the opportunity to chose students based on ethnicity. I had never thought of standardized tests as serving that function but I guess it goes to the level of commitment of the Rwandan government to move forward. 

I had another good French lesson where I think I’m starting to get a few things but here’s the question…WHY IN GOD’S NAME DOES FRENCH HAVE TO HAVE SO MANY VERB CONJUCATIONS???? And what exactly is Plus-que parfait? But…I’m learning. I’m getting it. Slowly. It’s actually surprising how much comes back to me from the time I took French in university. That’s another story…but basically I only passed when, during my oral final exam, when the professor asked if I would ever take French again, I promised her (crossed my heart sort of thing) that I would NEVER take another class. She gave me a pass. Barely.

 

Later…. October 29, 2009

 

A lovely man named Pascal just came to fix the water leak. You know, I have never had service this fast even in Canada. The people here have been so helpful! (Okay maybe waiting a few days with out water or electricity would be uncommon…) But Pascal came, surveyed the problem, went to the round –a-bout for the part. Came back an hour later and Voila! No more leaking tubing. Not only that….but he fixed the toilet so that it no longer runs. A while back we shut off the water because it was such a waste to let it run all the time. We were flushing it with bucket and dishwater. But now….ladies and gentlemen….it flushes!!!



Take 1.5 litre Nil bottle. Poke tiny hole near the bottom with a nail. (Yes, my water IS this colour)


Twist tap.

Enjoy the steady sprinkle of amazi! (Kinyarwanda for water).

And when you get really sick of being inventive, call this guy! Pascale! He'll come and.....
....fix the toilet and water leak for you!

It leaks.

October 28, 2009

 

I guess I’ll have to become self sufficient….You know, I feel like I’m doing a good job taking care of myself here. To be honest, I sort of had me pegged for someone who would freak out a lot more than I have.  My learning curve with work was steep but has rapidly become more gradual.  It seems, however,  that every time I turn around there is something else to “deal with.” What do I mean? Well, since I’ve been here I’ve had to learn the “Rwandan way of life”. Things like shopping in the market, taking motos, catching the bus to Kigali, boiling and filtering water, cooking with kerosene and those sorts of things. I’ve also had to get used to a lot of things: the washing here practically destroys my clothes and I’m always conscious of getting home on laundry day to take the wash in just incase it rains. I’m getting used to doing everything before 6 o’clock because that’s when the sun goes down and you never know about electricity. I’m getting used to cold showers…but don’t think I’ll really get used to it. I’ve also had to deal with things that I’ve never actually had to deal with – ever – in Canada or in Rwanda. For example, my house was broken into a while back. Or at least some people tried to take things – more or less unsuccessfully. That’s never happened in Canada although I really don’t think it’s an indication of the safety in Rwanda. It’s really safe here and people are very caring. I’m guessing that if I had lived in the East Village any longer, it would have happened there too. But when it happened here who did I call to help me? Bosco! He works with me and was helpful. My electrical box outside caught fire and I was out of power for a few days. That’s never happened. Who did I call to arrange an electrician? Bosco! It seems I’m always calling him – and today was no different. I came home from lunch to hear the water running….(this is usually a good thing…) but went into the bathroom and there was water EVERYWHERE. The pipe leading from the toilet to the water source has a large enough split in it to give my bathroom a little rinse. So…(and these are things I’m learning here but never would have bothered back home)…I ran outside to shut off the main water supply. How did I know where it was? I have no clue…but I’m glad I did. Now what do I do?? Well, I decided to eat lunch because I was starving and nothing good was ever accomplished on an empty stomach. So, after a protein filled lunch of eggs and tuna, I called….you guessed it….Bosco! He’ll come around today at 6 o’clock to have a look. In the mean time, I wandered in and out of the shops in Kibungo looking for something…ANYTHING…to hold until he gets here.  In reality, I don’t even need water leading to my toilet (it doesn’t flush anyway) but I would prefer if the flood gates closed. After a lengthy search and being taken, literally by the hand by a nice kid, to a shop near my house I found a small role of electrical tape. That should hold, right? I have no clue – but I guess I’m learning. 

Tuesday, October 27, 2009

And October went to....

So October has practically come and gone and I realized that I forgot to tell you who "bought" this month with his generous donation. Well, friends that's my cousin Peter Mancini! Okay, so he's my mom's cousin but we're all family - after all. When I first started this big long journey and the blog, I got a very supportive and encouraging email / donation from him. Peter was an NDP (yay!) Member of Parliament representing Nova Scotia. And who said we all vote Liberal?Now, Peter works as a Legal Aid lawyer. Thanks for your support and encouragement Peter! 


Peter with the ladies! (His cousins - my mom and aunt!)

Post office woes and a trip to Lake Kivu


Do you remember the days of Columbia House? You could get like 150 CDs for a penny or something, if you ordered 5 over the next year. I remember my friend Nina and I went through them to build up our collection of “grunge” CDs. Okay, to be honest, she wanted to build up her CDs because she just got a new stereo. I was still ordered tapes.  We went through the list and picked a bunch of albums and sent away. I remember the day her parcel came. We looked the return address and just knew that we would soon be listening to Pearl Jam and Stone Temple Pilots. To our horror Columbia House did not have all the CDs she had requested so instead of the Blind Melon album or the newest Black Crows. Instead we (I say “we” because we shared everything music) got the three disc collected works of Simon and Garfunkel! I kid you not. Columbia House looked at the music taste and said “Yes, I can see that this person is partial to the Seattle scene, so we’re going to send them some Simon and freakin’ Garfunkel.” The only music we’d heard was a Lemonheads version of Mrs. Robinson so we through on the CD and despite our preconceptions, we were pleasantly surprised.

 

On Friday I asked Vincent, the guy that works at the “iposita” to call me if a long awaited package arrived. He called when I was in Kigali and I was so excited to go get it. Aimey said she mailed something over 6 weeks ago – so it must be that – right? Today, I got there and, sadly, it was not the package. Instead, it was some books I ordered from Amazon. (Yes, Amazon delivers to Kibungo, Rwanda!) While I’m excited to have something good to read, I can’t help but be a little disappointed that Aimey’s parcel is somewhere out there, in post office purgatory, waiting to arrive to this little slice of heaven. Sigh. The books won’t be all that bad but Simon and Garfunkel was no Eddie Vedder either.

 

……

 

While I wait patiently for my post to arrive, I can describe my weekend to you. Orginally the plan was to head to Ngyuwye to see the chimps. Julie had organized it all but there weren’t enough beds – the only two guest houses were all booked up. So, instead, the Eastern Province crew decide to Go West. We were going to go to Lake Kivu. On Friday, after doing some business at the VSO office, though we had a couchsurfing meeting. Officially, I’m a couchsurfer. I signed up in April after meeting a girl from Seattle who  referred me. I’ve known many people to couch surf and it’s really a great idea. There is a large database of people who have surfed or hosted. It’s all built on a community of mutual trust and basically, you can get free accommodation anywhere in the world. The idea is to build community and share cultures around the world – one couch at a time. Truthfully, I’ve never surfed or hosted. I’ve wanted to host but by the time people started sending me messages, I was already on the move myself. I’ve never surfed because, frankly, I’m too shy. But, it’s a good way to meet people in a new country. So, the Rwandan couch surfers (mostly in Kigali) met at a place called Mamba on Friday night. I dragged my two non-surfers with me and we found the place (after a number of wrong turns, a few wrong bus stations and some guys following us from the centre of town to the suburbs).  We met some really neat people, including a couple who surfed around the world with a 5 month baby for a year and now, with their second child in tow, are living in Kigali. They are a total inspiration to anyone wanting to have kids but not wanting to give up travelling.

 

Saturday morning we enjoyed a coffee and breakfast with Lynley – a Canadian VSO volunteer in Kigali. She lets us…surf…at her house Friday night. Then we hopped on the bus and headed to Kibuye to see Lake Kivu. After many twists and turns and wanting to throw up, we arrived at the small lakeside town. We made our way to Home St. Jean, which is a great, clean and cheap guest house with a magnificent view of the lake. We snacked and then headed down to the “beach” – it was a path that lead down to some rocks. We all dove right in to enjoy the fresh – and bilharzia free – waters. Okay, I didn’t dive in at all. I whined and complained about the cold until I could finally get up the courage to jump in. Once in – it was beautiful!! After the dip we enjoyed………HOT showers. HOT, as in not freezing. As in, there were two dials instead of one, and one said cold and one said HOT and when you turned the HOT one, the temperature of the water increased. It was amazing. This was the first HOT shower I have had since Calgary. HOT…..beautiful and amazing and everything a shower should be. (Still, it was in a stall, with bugs on the wall but it was HOT and that’s all I cared about). It was hard to get out. I did – eventually. We had a great dinner and, in typical Rwandan fashion, headed to bed early. The next morning we walked down to the lake (and were nearly attacked my a crazy man in the market until the sellers threw stones and avocados at him until he ran away) and caught a bus back to Kigali.

 

The weekend was so relaxing. I think it’s the first time I’ve felt like a holiday since I’ve been here. It was so nice. So nice that last night I didn’t even bother to wash dishes or boil water. I just kept on relaxing. Of course, I paid for it this morning when I tried to boiled water half asleep. I burned my finger on the kerosene stove. It immediately turned into a blister. Yuck. This week is a short one, as I need to be back in Kigali for a meeting on Friday. I have one school visit and I’m preparing for my workshops that begin in earnest in November. 






View of the lake from our room.
Lake Kivu
Look who decided to join us?
Eastern Province crew (minus a few important friends)

Home St. Jean. Beautiful!

Friday, October 23, 2009

Cleaning my water filter has never been so exciting.

This week was a good one. Three great school visits, 2 long and beautiful motorides, watch a great model lesson at one of the schools, had dinner with some friends, met my neighbour, began walking in the mornings, got an eye infection, 2 French lessons and now a weekend away. All in all…pretty good. Didn’t write a tonne of “exciting” things. I guess I’m beginning to feel like I live here and I forget the things that are making this an adventure.  So, below you’ll find some mundane things that I find adventure in. Why not? Why isn’t cleaning your water filter interesting? It is so me – because it takes an hour!! But, if you were ever wondering how I manage to stay healthy…here it is. 


This is way I need to filter my water. Firstly, I boil this to kill all the living creatures that love me but I don't love them. But it still looks like this because of the dirt / minerals.
These candles filter out the yucky stuff. See how they work? They trap the dirt and they get really dirty.
So, I take apart the filter, and clean everything in filtered water, wash down the candles (see the brown water? That's after cleaning the candles!) Filter is the silver thing on the right.
The candles after they have been cleaned.
Mean, clean, filtering machine! Ready for another week or so....

Was that read as good for you as it was for me? I hope so!

Eating Sideskicks Has Never Been So Good!



Let me walk you through an evening in the life of Anna. Given that I live in a town in Rwanda with no more than 50,000 people but all of whom are spread out and so it feels like a village, and given that I live in a country where my knowledge of the local language – though improving – is limited to numbers, foods and greetings, and given that there isn’t much to do ‘round here after the sun goes down at 6 o’clock, it can feel pretty isolated and I need to do things to amuse myself. Of course, this blog is highly censored (lest the powers that be get offended by something I might say or worse, my family and friends find out that I do have down days!) so I come up with little things to write about that are about as mundane as the floor your feet are on right now or that colour of wall in your office at work. But it amuses me and so, for the next few moments, it may amuse you as well.

 

I got a package from home. Again – so thrilled that my parents parceled up some goodies for me. Let me give you a snapshot of its contents, albeit an incomplete one. There were a few more Canadian pins that you can get from your local MP, some SunRype candies to give me some much needed vitamins, some mud masks for my grimy face, some school supplies to help me with work and some newspaper clippings about everyone’s favourite impersonating former Tory MP – Rahim Jaffer. Apparently Mr. Jaffer got himself into trouble last month by drinking and driving and being in possession of illegal drugs. The articles were from September and he was supposed to appear in court around now – so we’ll see what happens. Regardless, I would just like to take this opportunity to thank Mr. Jaffer for once again given us yet another (as if we needed one) reason to not vote for your highly respected party. (That is assuming, after all, that it was Rahim Jaffer driving the car and not an aide pretending to be him). But I digress….

 

What was in my parcel was a packaged food – a Sidekick – processed food to the extreme. This was whole wheat fetticcine with Alfredo Sauce. OMG I have not had Italian food in like, forever, so I was so excited to open this baby up. I should be honest and tell you that I have not had a Sidekick since, let me think, 2000. Yes folks – NINE YEARS. You may wonder why I have avoided said instant food. The main reason is the chemicals and the high sodium but there is another, more memorable reason. I remember very clearly the last time I made a Sidekicks in Alfredo Sauce. It was a Thursday. I lived in HUB Mall and was in my third year at the University of Alberta. Anyone who went to the U of A will know that Thursday nights meant RATT night and so, I made a quick dinner (Sidekicks – Alfredo Sauce) and then headed out. RATT meant a few things: drinking beer, dancing to Garth Brooks, staying up way too late and hoping to get to your Friday morning class. It’s possible that this Thursday was even Holy Thursday because I know I was headed to Calgary the next day. Hmmmm…. Either way, the night was long, the beer was plentiful and the next morning my roommate, Laurel, and I headed – hung over - to the Greyhound bus station. That’s not before I finished off my leftovers (Sidekicks – Alfredo) from the night before. (Can you see where this story is going?) Well, there we were in the south side bus station in Edmonton waiting for the bus when a wave of nausea came over me. The next thing I knew I was being re-visited by the Sidekicks Alfredo in the grungy washroom of the south side bus station. Laurel asked me if I needed water and I could barely muffle a yes before she was off in search of something to make it all stop. Well, apparently there is nothing nearby and she practically ran all the way to Calgary and back just to bring me something to drink. Ahh….that felt better.

 

And since then, I haven’t touched the stuff. But now, in Rwanda – anything is possible!

 

I came home from my first French lesson – which was great! – and all geared up to cook. I was starving so I was happy to see that this Sidekick only took 15 minutes to prepare and because it came from Canada, I could practice my French while reading the package. 15 minutes it definitely DID NOT take. Let me walk you through the directions (in English) just for a laugh:

 

Stove Top instructions.

Pause for a moment to remember that I have neither a stove, nor the top of one. Just two little kerosene stoves that sit of the floor.

 

1.     In a medium saucepan combine 1 and ¼ cup of water, 1 cup of milk; bring to a boil.

I also don’t have a medium sauce pan, measuring cups or milk! So…in a large soup pot I combined 1 small tea cup of water, with a little more water, and then another tea cup of water with a heaping spoonful of powdered milk. It eventually came to a boil.

 

2.     Stir in package contents. Reduce heat, continue boiling over medium het, stirring frequently for 8 minutes or until past is tender.

Once stirring packets in I reduced the size of the flame from “holy crap that could like the house on fire” to “flame that might do some damage in the kitchen but the sitting room will be fine” (there is no dial on my stove) and continued to boil. 8 minutes quickly turned into 9, 10, 11….

 

3.     Remove from heat, stir in margarine. Cover, let stand until sauce thickens.

I removed from heat and (even though this was conveniently left out of the instructions, God knows why) blew out my kerosene stove. I don’t have margerine but I do have Blue Band. (When asked how to say ‘butter’ in Kinyarwanda, our instructor during training just said “Blue Band.”) Is this margerine? I’m not sure. It doesn’t require refrigeration and doesn’t quite look like margerine. I think the jury is still out. But I can tell you that it is a “spread that is high in vitamin A and good for baking, cooking and spreading.”

 

Voila! I had dinner. I also threw in some tomatoes for a little more vitimins than Blue Band could offer me, and it did take a little bit longer than 15 minutes. All in all, though, definitely worth it! So good, that I think I will go on the hunt for them in Kigali. Maybe next time, I’ll try to follow the instructions for making it in the Microwave. That should be a real laugh.


The promise of a meal in 15 minutes was so alluring.
Packaging in French and English.
One "medium saucepan." Check.
Ingredients for life: powered milk, Blue Band, Sidekick. 

I was so hungry by the end of the process, I ate so fast and then realized I should have taken a photo. 

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Some thoughts on electricity

So I just HAD to comment on something my parents told me today. Apparently the power went out in a Calgary community for a few hours the other day. The big news of the day was how some people had to open their garage doors ...get this....manually!! That's dreadful.

Now, first let me say that I am not being all high and mighty here - it may come across like this - but I'm not. I know that when you are used to something and it fails to work, it sets you off and it's totally annoying. Hey, when my power goes off for the night, the morning, a few days....I get mighty annoyed. What do you mean I have to boil my water on the kerosene stove?? The difference with me and you, I guess, is that I can live without electricity. Rwanda is just set up that way. People don't depend on it. I do like the charge my cell phone and computer but if I can't, then I can't. I get annoyed and move on. I can still cook, eat, drink and clean. The basics for living. North America is not set up for power failure. (Remember the black outs of 2003?) So, it's sort of a bigger deal when the power is out and it inconveniences us. I get that.

What I don't get is why that was the news of the day. Someone, please tell me, are there not more important things we should be discussing. I not even saying we need to be all "Oh my God, what's happening in Africa?" but what about politics? Is it true that Conservative ridings are getting more money from the government? What's going on with Rahim Jaffer? How are budget cuts going to affect Alberta schools? And most importantly = is Blue Rodeo really playing at this year's Grey Cup?????

Don't get me wrong, I am definitely missing television, my hair straightener and a refrigerator. But maybe, after you've done reading this, turn off your computer and switch off a few lights. Open the curtains and let the sun shine it!!

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Settling In


I realized that it’s been just over 50 days since I’ve been in Rwanda. I’m counting – if just to remind myself to remember each day. At 365, I’m sure I’ll have wondered where the time went. Things are starting to feel more and more like home. I came home from work one day and walked to kitchen to find the phone and check my messages to see if anyone called while I was away. Funny thing is, I don’t have a phone let alone an answering machine! I like going away to visit friends, going to Kigali has its rewards too (Carmel Macchiato, peanut butter….) but I enjoy coming home afterwards.

 

Friday I had a fantastic visit with a school. The moto ride was beautiful – as always – and the rain stayed away. I took a video of the valleys as I rolled along the country roads, which I hope to upload on the blog. I arrived to a hearty welcome from the director. We met with the teachers and I conducted another needs assessment. Then, because students were done their exam and playing in the yard, we wandered around. He gathered the young children and they sang a few songs. The older children were putting together their garden and, because rainy season has begun, it should be green an lush when they come back to school in the new year. The director took me to lunch and it was the first time I’d eaten plantains in tomato sauce – and the first time they weren’t dry! After lunch the executive secretary of the sector happened to be there so he asked my impressions of the school. Then a moto ride back, a stop at the post office to check to see if a parcel from home had made it, and a quick meeting at the district office. That night I was going to take a bus to Nykarambi for a visit but missed the express bus – which takes about 40 minutes. Instead, I was stuck on a local bus which took, including waiting until it was full before driving off, took about 1 ½ hours! Arghhhh…..but I met some great people. Even though was don’t speak the same language, a smile goes a long way. There was a woman who was carrying a new born. I think she’s just had the baby at the hospital in Kibungo. I met a man who wanted to learn a few Englsih words. There was also two students from a boarding school in Kibungo who were going to home after exams. I eventually arrived after dark but to the great hosts in Kierhe district. We had a relaxing Saturday morning before I (missed another express bus and took a local taxi again) headed back to Kibungo to get the market. It had rained the mud was everywhere!. I bought some material for an ijupo (skirt) and then went to the shop that sells amagi mi bisi (raw eggs – probably spelled wrong) and always knows that’s what I buy from her. Saturday I was also treated to a phone call from my parents and then one from Aimey! I also met with my French teacher to confirm lessons and a rate. I begin on Tuesday (mardi!) and am really looking forward to it.

 

Today is a lazy Sunday and I’m absolutely enjoying sitting around in my pajamas, ready, writing, and puttering. It’s officially rainy season and so its wet and muddy out. I think the sun is trying to peek through the clouds. My gecko is active today. Normally they stay on the walls but one of the guys just darted across the floor – for something scrumptious I’m sure. Maybe I will watch a movie or read some more or give myself a “pedicure”. There is one magazine here that I haven’t yet read. Tina had brought Geographical and The Economist home a while ago and I’ve really enjoyed reading the magazines – even if the news is a few months old. 






Students spend their free time after exams preparing gardens before the rainy season is fully underway. 
Children bring their own hoes and shovels from home to do this. The grass in the front is tied with banana leaves and brought from home by the smaller children.
This only took about 2 hours to complete. Ready for the rain!
The younger children singing a song - and all jostling to get in the picture.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

Head Teachers' Needs Assessment

My job is a great job. I get to work with 65 schools in the district and provide training to teachers about methodology. So, I thought I would start with head teachers (some people call them directors, we would call them school principals). A lot of great work has been done here so I wanted to get a baseline assessment and then find out what needs still had to be met. All head teachers arrived more or less on time. The meeting was complicated by the fact that there was an election for a vice mayor taking place next door and many had to go vote there. We arranged the workshop so that we would first assess what’s already happened in schools and then survey teacher needs. I selected four categories of needs: English language needs, methodology needs, resource needs and school administration needs. The day was long but the head teachers were keen to participate. I will also take this needs assessment to four or five schools and ask teachers directly what they feel they need as well. From this, I will develop workshops and training for the district and hopefully see a positive impact in the next year. This is a great job!

A week in pictures

One reason to go to Kigali - great coffee at Bourbon.
Soccer stadium in Kigali
The girls come out.
Our salad for Thankgiving. it was made with LOVE!
A Thanksgiving Feast - Rwanda style
A horn of plenty? (These were the placemats)
One of the needs I want to address is the issue of teacher motivation. When explaining this to the head teachers a teacher yelled "Amafaranga!" (This got a laugh because it means 'money!') Frodauld went on to explain that money is not a motivator - it's a satisfier. Funny how the same issue comes up at home too.
Filling in the needs analysis.
Helping to translate. 

A bus trip, a marriage proposal and poulet bicyclette! Happy Thanksgiving!

It was 2pm when the rain started on Monday and I wondered if I’d be able to get to the bus stop at 4:30 without getting soaked. It petered off at about 4pm so I packed my bag and went on a hunt for a bottle of wine to take to my hosts for my first ever Rwandan Thanksgiving Dinner. There are two other Canadians in this neck of the woods – both in Nyakarambi – and Andy had spoken to the local pub about getting us a quasi-Thanksgiving Dinner. I found a bottle of wine for just over one days salary for me (and a weeks salary for many) and went catch a bus. A nice big and clean Sotra bus pulled up and I handed Gosbert (my Sotra man) a 1000. I needed some change (they call it balance) but didn’t want to miss a seat. He promised me he’d bring me the change on the bus. So there I am and all of a sudden the bus lurches out of the spot and I start yelling out the window to “Stop! Gosbert! My balance!!!” He looked like he’d just remembered and ran around to get the driver to stop. There was some waiting and eventually another guy came back and handed me 300 through the window. I looked around and everyone is staring at the muzungu and spoke a quiet “Murakoze” (Thank you) an unsure “Tu gende?” (Let’s go?). That got a good laugh and I settled into my seat for the 40 minute journey.

 

The bus was full but as people got off along the way, a nice young police officer sat down next to me. There were some men up front that I could tell where talking about me – “muzungu” came up. Then finally, one man turned around to ask “Amakuru?” (How are you?) to which I responsed “Ni meza” (Fine). Big smiles on the bus because the muzungu can speak some Kinyarwanda! Then asked my name and thrilled that I understood that question as well. Of course he went on to keep speaking in Kinyarwanda and my blank face gave it away but the nice police officer next to me filled me in. “He says ‘are you still a girl?’” The look of horror on my face because I thought he was asking if I’d hit puberty led him to clarify – “Are you married?” “No,” I replied. “He wants to know if he can be your husband.” Me: “No! I will not get married.” More Kinyarwanda “He says ‘ he has cows, he has money. He has anything you want.” I laughed wondering if he had electricity (which I am in dire need of now). I was consistently polite in my refusal and finally the police officer said “He is just being friendly. He said you looked lost and as though you knew noone so he wanted to talk to you.” Basically, I inferred, he is a harmless and friendly Rwandan.

 

I arrived at Nyakarami lauging at the experience and happy to visit with a few Canadians to celebrate Thanksgiving. We went to a sparkling new restaurant in the town and settled into our chairs and were served salad, fries and the most chicken I have seen in a while. We dug in and then realized that this chicken must have been a marathon runner – it was so tough it took minutes to chew and swallow. All the longer to savour the taste, I suppose. Christine said that in Quebec it is called “poulet bicyclette” because it is as though the chicken is always pedaling a bicycle. Either way, we were happy to have something resembling Thanksgiving dinner. Dorothy (from the UK) asked us why we celebrated Thanksgiving and we all sort of looked at each other hoping someone else knew the answer. “Because the Americans do?” “To celebrate the harvest?”  We were pretty sure it had nothing to do with pilgrims coming to the New World….(Maybe this happened on the Plains of Abraham?) So, we made something up…and were quite embarrassed that we celebrate with no knowledge as to why. But whatever! Essentially to us Thanksgiving in Canada meant great weather, great food and great company. Oh, sounds like Rwanda too!

I arrived back in Kibungo the following morning, walked passed the bus ticket sellers and heard a few say "Balance? Balance?" I guess they remembered me from yesterday.

Monday, October 12, 2009

I went to Kigali in search of turkey. I came back with a 'new' skirt.

I have promised myself that this was one of the last weekends I will spend in Kigali for a while. I like it and everything – the good food, great coffee, meeting up with friends and the availability of peanut butter – but I really missed my home in Kibungo. I think that this is the first time since I arrived here that I’ve actually thought of this little house as my home – and I couldn’t get here fast enough on Sunday!

 

The plan was this: Christine would catch the bus from her town, text me when she was on it and then I would get on the bus when it stopped in Kibungo. Well, a little miss communication meant that she bought a ticket for a bus that didn’t come and and eventually got the bus an hour later. I wander down to the bus park which is always buzzing with excitement and constant people asking me if I’m going to Kigali. I had already bought my ticket through Sotra. There are a few bus companies down this way but Stella and Sotra are the best because they are competing for business and both have big new busses (as to flea ridden mini busses).  So, Sotra ticket in hand I start to wait. Then I meet up with Gosbert who is the “man in charge” of the Stora sellers in Kibungo. He promises, as always, that I’ll get a good bus. And he knows I need to get on it because my friend is on it. This – is to the dismay of the Stella operator who believes, strongly, that I should ride with them. Then his phone rings. He talks for a little while in Kinyarwanda. When he gets off the phone he says to me “You should phone you’re friend. There is a problem with the bus.” So, I dial Christine’s number and she picks up saying “I was just texting you.” “How’s the bus?” I say and she laughs and replies “Not good.” The bus had a flat so at present they were outside fixing it. Ah! We’ll never get to Kigali!

 

Eventually the bus comes – just as the rain starts. So Gosbert grabs my hand and we run toward the bus. He looks in and sees not 1, not 2 but 3 muzungus! (Two were tourists travelling from Tanzania) He pushes me on the bus so I have seat with Christine – granted it was the fold-down-in-the-aisle seat but on the big busses they aren’t too bad. We’re off . It’s raining hard and the bus driver is intent on making up time. He’s speeding through Rwanda and – in a country that is one of the most densly populated in Africa – it means swerving to avoid pedestrians, bicycles and passing plantain trucks. Eventually we arrive in Kigali – in the dark – make our way to meet Karen at St. Paul’s guesthouse. It’s good and cheap and has hot water showers.  I’ve not had a hot shower since…um….Calgary. Oh, no, there was one luke warm shower in Kigali about 5 weeks ago, I think.  But it turns out that St. Paul’s is booked and so we’re in the older guest house next door which is not as nice and the last volunteer to go there had bites from bed bugs. Oh well, we’re here. And least in Kigali there is reliable electricity.

 

Click. (that’s the sound of the power going out – just as I thought how nice it was to be able see while I was unpacking).

 

No worries! No traveler to Rwanda goes anywhere – even a weekend in the city – without their head lamp. So, without missing a beat, I grab my light and continue unpacking. Next door, Karen and Christine had done the exact same thing. After a little break we head to Sun and Moon which is a fancy pants pizza place and wait over an hour for our food. But it was worth it! Real food – yum! The company was great but we were tired so we head back for a good sleep.

 

I spent the night feeling like I was being bitten by bugs. In the morning I was pleasantly surprised to be bite free.

 

Saturday was full of shopping with Dianne, who is a local student we met when we first got here. She took us to the markets because I needed a skirt and the girls were on the hunt for dresses, t-shirts etc. Dianne was great because she could tell us whether the price was fair or we were getting the muzungu price. I bought a great skirt, which I needed considering I only bought one below the knew to Rwanda. Lunch at Simba and we all three ordered hamburgers. Must have been our iron deficiencies calling out for us.

 

After lunch we headed to Amahoro Stadium where some girls we know were in a fundraising soccer game against some female MPs to raise money for the One Dollar Campaign. We thought they were to start playing at 2pm but there were kids playing instead. The game started at 5:15! But we had fun sitting with Rwandans and cheering on the games we watch. When the muzungus took the field – and immediately scored two goals – the crowds went wild with excitement! Then a local and a muzungu tripped over and they went wild again! So much excitement. Unfortunately, the Rwandan team was not doing very well so they brought in some ringers from the national women’s team and beat the muzugus quite easily. A late game meant we were too late to head to the Mutzig festival and instead found a local bar for a beer and chips. I headed back to St. Paul’s on my own by moto. First time riding a moto in the dark and it was cold! But arrived to find the gate locked. I already knew the power had been out so I was armed with a light and knocked on the gate. The moto drive was nice and waited until I was safely inside before he left. He even honked his horn a few times to get the guard’s attention. Safely instead I headed to bed. Tired and already looking forward to my own bed in Kibungo.

 

Sunday I had a great breakfast at Bourbon, complete with a caramel macchiato. We caught the bus at noon and during the ride I turned on my IPod and enjoyed the scenery pass by. We passed a bike vs. car accident and watch a group of men carry the victim (a man on a bicyle) along the road. His head was bleeding through the t-shirt someone wrapped around him. While there is a law that all moto drivers and passengers have to wear helmets – the same does not go for guys on bikes.

 

I arrived home, unpacked my new purchases (hand towels, coconut milk and a new wok) and got down to making an early dinner. (Sweet potatoes, carrots, onions and shredded cabbage with hoisin sauce and nutflour and an egg for protein) It was so good. I settled in to eat and watch a movie. Thankfully my laptop was charged but right on cue, the power went off.  Argh.

 

This week will (I hope) be a busy one. I have a few school visits and a head teachers needs assement on Wednesday. I’ve developed some categories that I’d like to assess so that I can plan workshops and training better. No point planning something that the schools don’t feel is useful. I’m really looking forward to the results because it will mean that I can get down to work. I’ve begun to wonder why I’m here a bit but I know that things take time. So, I’ve been patient but am happy to get this underway. Tonight (Monday) I’m heading to Dorothy and Christine’s because they, along with Andy (a Canadian World Teach volunteer) are planning a THANKSGIVING DINNER!!! Now, there won’t be any turkey, to be sure. But still, it’s my first holiday away from home and while I really miss everyone in Calgary, there is no point sitting here alone.

 

So, with that – Happy Thanksgiving Everyone!

Friday, October 9, 2009

Nizeyimana captured in Kampala


Globe and Mail article about a suspect from the 1994 genocide who was arrested in Uganda this week.

Click here to see full article.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Another highlight - the Toilet Saga

I always like coming to the district office. I can drink as much water as I want and not have to worry about using a pit latrine. It's great. AND the district put a toilet seat on one of the toilets. Today, though, there is no water and so all the washrooms were locked. It would have done me well to learn this BEFORE I guzzled my half litre before 10am. I'm running around and go upstairs. Nope, still locked. I pop into this really posh office (which tiles on the floor and not just cement!) and this lovely lady walked me through the building looking for an open washroom. Then, just when I thought the situation was hopeless a miracle was performed. She walked me back to the mayor's office (I realized this was said "posh" office), through the leather sofas, flat screen t.v. and to a small door behind the empty desk. This was his washroom. The nicest washroom I have seen in Rwanda. With a toilet seat you can actually sit on!! And there was a......a......a....... MIRROR! It's been weeks since I've looked in anything but a mirror the size my students use for their lockers. At first, when I looked up from the sink while washing my hands with RUNNING WATER, I was surprised to see a muzungu staring back at me. Oh...that's me. And, I could use a shower. And I think I've lost some weight and wow, I look good in this colour! But, no time to admire the gorgeous image infront of me, I would like to be gone before I meet the mayor coming back to his office. 

Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Highlights....lowlights

Just a quick update as I sit here wondering if I'll find the energy to post something well written, witting and/or evocative....

I just saw a GIGANTIC COCKROACH in my kitchen and when I tried to kill it, it disappeared. Please tell me how something the size of an elephant can disappear like that. Highlights that may or may not be forthcoming will include some or all of the following:

- Meeting Kibungo's finest, aka Kibungo's brass, aka Kibungo's police officers and finding out that, hey!, we have the same camera.

- getting locked out of my house (sort of) and inside my compound and realizing that....wait for it...I was wearing brown shoes with black pants - AGAIN. 

- breaking into said house, wearing said shoes with said pants, with a credit card. I saw it on a movie once.

-trying two new recipes: banana pancakes (sans maple syrup) and sweet potato and tuna cakes. Not on the same night.

- wondering why the electricity ALWAYS seems to go off when I have people over.

- realizing on my walk to a school today that not much phases me anymore: not the cows and goats in the middle of the road, or the live chicken tied upside down to some jerry cans on the back of someone's bike, or the moto driver with a passenger carrying a bike, the GIGANTIC COCKROACH in my kitchen. (Use of capital letters might suggest I was phased. I was not. I would just like to point out that the swift motion of my spatula and my poor aim means that he's still around and the fact that I'm typing and not freaking out is a sign of my growth.)

- realizing that refrigerators are over rated. Granted, I don't buy meat or yogurt.

- the little boy at school who saw me walking, poised himself like an All Blacks Rugby player, squished up his face, clenched his fists and yelled "Muzungu!!!" at the top of his lungs. Later, near the same spot two toddlers walking with their moms ran up to give me the biggest, most lovely Rwandan hug I've had yet. 

- that the thing I saw today that got me was a man who can't walk dragging himself by his hands to a bus and a child running after him to give him some money. This child, and his mother, had little themselves but still found it in their heart to give.

I've decided that proper (well written, witting and/or evocative) entries won't be written. This will do, donkey. This will do.

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

We are so lucky

adapted from From the Globe and Mail:


Norway enjoys the world's highest quality of life, while Niger suffers the lowest, a United Nations agency said today, as it released a ranking that highlights the wide disparities in well-being between rich and poor countries.

Canada was listed fourth.

The annual Human Development Index, unveiled in Bangkok by the UN Development Program, takes into account life expectancy, literacy, school enrolment and per capita gross domestic product in 182 countries.

“A child born in Niger can expect to live to just over 50 years, which is 30 years less than a child born in Norway. Furthermore, the differences in per capita income are huge for every dollar earned per person in Niger, US $85 are earned in Norway,” UNDP said.

Canada’s life expectancy was among the highest with a child at birth expecting to live up to 80 years.

Norway was followed by Australia and Iceland on the overall list, which drew on statistics dating from 2007, before Iceland was hit hard by the global economic crisis. Afghanistan and Sierra Leone rounded out the bottom of the ranking. The United States was in 13th place.


Rwanda was ranked 167 out of 182 countries! 

Monday, October 5, 2009

Happy International Teacher's Day!

Today is International Teacher's Day. In some places I think it was on Saturday but in Ngoma District, at least, it was today. I went out to Remera Sector where the reps from the Sector, a parent, a teacher representative and a head teacher representative gave speeches to thank teachers for all their hard word. You know, teachers are the same all over the world. They do so much because it's a calling - not because of the pay cheques. (That isn't a surprise to many of you). It may shock you to learn that a starting teacher in Rwanda makes about $80 per month. Even by Rwandan standards, this is incredibly low. In secondary school students are streamed according to ability. Those who do well, are streamed toward sciences. As students perform worse they are streamed to different areas. The weakest students are streamed toward TTC (Teacher Training Centres). It makes me incredibly sad to think that the future of a country and the people who are responsible for delivering that, is given so little recognition. Having said that, the teachers that I have met aren't in it for the money (how could they be?) but for their love or children and for the learning process. That is what makes teaching a universal profession.

So, to all my teacher colleagues out there....keep doing what you're doing. We are lucky enough to have the best job in the world! 

Sunday, October 4, 2009

What a weekend!

Friday started out to be a bust. As you know, I fell on my way home (I’m still bruised….) but got a great package from home. Julie was coming in from Kigali to spend some time “in the country.” So I was getting ready to pick her up. The sky was getting darker and darker, both from the setting sun (officially before 6pm) and the black clouds looming somewhere off in the distance. There was a crack of thunder far off and I hoped the storm would stay there until Julie and I were in my house. I left to meet her at the “rompway” (round-about in English, traffic circle in Canadian). While waiting it was dark and the sky was spitting. Lightening lit up the sky every once in a while. While waiting I ran into people that I knew! It felt like home. Patrick (the moto driver) came up and we talked about Tina and Danny and he showed me a text that Danny had sent from London. He was so proud. Then I saw Moses. He works at Moderne and is so friendly. He’s been collecting Fanta tops for me. We chatted. He used to be a teacher but, get this, makes more sitting collecting money at a restaurant than he did as a teacher. He loved the job but it wasn’t worth it. Also, he’s a little slow. But he’s wonderful.

Julie arrived and we bolted to my house arriving just as the rains started. The electricity was on just long enough for me to give her a tour and then it proceeded to go on and off for the next hour or so while we cooked and ate. There was a break in the rain and we headed to the rompway and then to the Umbrella Pine to meet Jason and Epi for drinks. We were there until about 11pm which is the latest I’ve ever been out. Kibungo sort of gets really quiet that late. Satruday morning Julie and I drag ourselves out of bed to head south to Nyakarambi. We were meeting up with Dorothy and Christine to head to the border and to see Rusumo Falls. We hop off to dump our stuff and then head back out to catch a bus continuing onto the falls. Whoops – it’s election day in the country (for sector and district leaders) and as a result EVERYTHING is shut down. We didn’t realize how lucky we were to get out of a Kibungo. There aren’t any express busses and no one seems sure whether busses will run today because of the election. Eventually a local taxi bus pulls up and, even though they are slower and have more fleas…., they are cheaper and will get us there. We pass many communities with hoards of people out for elections. For umadugadu (smallest unit) elections, candidates stand and anyone who wants to support him (or her?) lines up behind them in the field. Who ever has the largest line of support behind them, wins. I don’t know a tonne about it but what I do know, is that people walked miles just to get there. I also know that Canadians don’t appear to be that committed to the democratic process.

We arrive in the town and skip across the bridge to see the falls. On the bridge a line is drawn about part way down, marked with holes that indicate the border to Tanzania. We jumped over and voila! We were in another country. On both sides truck after truck were lined up to cross the border – which amounts to a single lane bridge over a narrow river and some neat falls. This bridge was the site of a hundreds of thousands of refugees escaping during the genocide. Over 500,000 fled into Tanzania this way – 250,000 of them in a 24 hour period.  We decided to hike up to the top of a hill for a better view of the falls. On our way, we noticed baboons climbing away from the immigration office to the top of the hill. Further down, a family of baboons were hanging out by the trucks waiting to cross.

Our hike took us behind a few buildings of Rusumo and then along banana trees and the odd goat. A little boy began to walk with us – as usually happens with mzungus travelling together. He looked about 8, but when I asked him his age he answers “Icumi na biri” which is 12. His name was Theogene. We continued to wander and began to ask him how to say various things in Kinyarwanda. He asked to have his photo taken, which I obliged. Many little kids will do this because they love to see themselves on your screen after. We told him we wanted to get a look of the Akagera River and so, he marched on, leading the way. He would point to a goat, a rooster, a child, a tree and tell us all the Kinyarwanda name for them. His smile lit up his face. We asked him again “Akagera?” and he nodded, a bit impatient, and showed us we’d walk straight and turn to the right. This little guy was our own tour guide. He showed me how to get an avocado (avoka) down from the tree – the local boys throw rocks to hit them down. As we walked, another little fellow began to come with us. Now we were six. We arrived at the top and when we all got a glimpse of Akagera River, Rusumo Falls and Tanzania spread out before us, we gasped in wonderment and Theogene rocked back on his heals as proud as punch that he got us there. He tried to get us to pronouce his friends name – which started with an S – and would tell us slowly until we could get it. A great teacher! We shared our snack with them and we’d take pictures of the falls and they just had to see it. He pointed to the boat and told us its Kinyarwandan name. We saw people running on the Tanzania side and I ask him what “running” was in his language. We both acted it out and he translated. In all of this, these boys didn’t once ask for money. When we shared cookies with them, they didn’t once ask for more. We decided to give them each 100 Francs anyway – which I am usually dead set against. This case, though, the children didn’t ask, they were alone, and they were helpful. They even walked us down and Theogene gave us a recap of the Kinya words we learned: chicken, goat, banana, rooster, and boat. I rattled them off. He came up to me, tapped me on the arm and started running on the spot to remind me that he also taught me that. Theogene’s friend bid us farewell when a dirt path emerged to his house and then Theogene said goodbye but not before pulling my hand through the brush to get a view us his village down below. He was a sweet boy and meeting him we the highlight of my trip to the falls.  

After the hike we had a hot (for the first time) mélange and then took another local bus back to Nyakarambi. We put chairs in the garden and  enjoyed the sun and fresh air. Christine made this amazing chili with host of different vegetables. We cooked and ate outside under the full moon. Andy (Canadian with World Teach) came by and we all just enjoyed each other’s company. I think it’s much harder to live there – squatting toilet, no indoor water, solar power that doesn’t last very long…. – but I really felt like I was camping and the company was fantastic. My sleep was amazingly sound considered Christine had just killed a cockroach in the other room and I was sleeping on the floor. In the morning we enjoyed coffee and fruit breakfast (and helping fill water when it finally came on!) before Julie and I headed back to Kibungo. All in all – a fantastic weekend in Rwanda!

Pictures from Rusumo Falls

All really is Okey. With that on your truck, how could you ever have road rage?
Welcome to Rwanda - this sign sums up the country's attitude.
Rusumo Falls
Rwanda (left), Tanzania (right). This IS the border.
Somehow these guys got passed customs and immigration.
Hey! What's this monkey on my back?
Little guy a little scared to jump.
Our tour guide - Theogene.
Akagera River and Rusumo Falls from the hill. You can see all the trucks lined up for the border on the Tanzanian side.
Buddies.
Theogene's friends whose name I could not remember for the life of me!


My new friends.
My other new friends -- cooking in the great outdoors. Julie, Christine and Dorothy.
When the water comes on, you fill up your buckets and pots in a hurry....
.....and you fill EVERYTHING you can!