Thursday, July 30, 2009
Welcome to the Jungle, Baby!
Our wake up call was 6 am (does anyone sleep in in this country?) and we took a hike through the Amazon to a Lost Lake. Along the way we found trees that set off compasses because they are magnetic, a tree that lookes like a penis, and a tree that smells like garlic. Aimey also ate beetle larva (I am not kidding!!) and we poked at a....wait for it....tarantula until it came out of hiding to play. AND I DIDN´T CRY! I´m ready for Rwanda folks!!!! We made it to the island just into time to board a little canoe and paddle around with the giant black Caiman. Yikes..... Then we headed back to the lodge where we swung in hammocks until lunch!
After lunch we took sticks and food and swimsuits and went across to Monkey Island to fish and swim. (For catfish, not monkeys!) We swam in water where Caiman live!! We swam to keep the flies off mostly, but it cooled us off before heading back. We showered (there is only cold water in in the jungle - for good reason...it´s bloody hot) and then relaxed in our private hammocks in the screened in porch to our hut. I read, Aimey dozed. That is the life!! Dinner was served in banana leaves and we played ping pong for a while before getting too warm.
This morning we had a great breakfast before coming back to Pto. Maldanado where we are spening time booking some hotels in Bolivia.....We head to Puno tomorrow and if my altitude sickness can subside, we´ll continue into Bolivia. If not, we think we might scratch it and head up the coast toward Ecuador. I´m dreading being sick again in Cusco but I´m being diligent with the altitude pills so I hope to be better. Either way, we´ll let you know!!
Stay tuned for pictures....I hope to do them later today when I come back to check my email and see if we actually have a place to stay on Lack Titicaca!
Monday, July 27, 2009
Quick re-cap
- My Spanish is improving but I have a tendancy to want to respond in French. Go figure
- It seems that near our hotel just above every store sold matteresses and people bought a lot of them
-There are stray dogs everywhere and all Aimey wants to do is go around giving them dog treats. It breaks her heart but I reminded her that a) she hasn´t had her rabies shot and b) as soon as she feeds them, she´ll have a following!
-Altitude sickness is the worst thing I have ever experienced!
-Our trekking groups was so fantastic. They included:
- six Irish folks who met doing charity walks for the Irish heart foundation and have since begun trekking all over the world
-a Welsh couple, one of whom is a teacher!
-a newly engaged couple from Denmark
-white water rafting is great fun but not when it{s Peruvian winter!
Memorable quotes so far:
1) Welsh Gemma on night 2 of the trek "the toilets here are proper toilets!"
Me: "So you mean, you can sit on them instead of squating?"
Welsh Gemma: " well, I still wouldn´t sit on them"
2) Danish Andres audio Spanish tapes "Relax. Listen to the music. Enjoy the words."
3) Aimey "Look, there´s blue sky!"
Irish Ann "Yes, but it´s not over Peru. It´s somewhere feckin´ else!"
The Inca Trail
Day 1
Bus to Ollayantotambo at 7pm and stay and a cute uber Peruvian hotel. Enjoy a good meal and go to bed early to be ready for the hike tomorrow.
Day 2
Wake up call at 6:30 and meet with a local to buy walking sticks and Coca leaves. The Coca plant helps with altitudie sickness. You roll five or so leaves and chew on them ( not unlike tobacco) to help alleviate the sympotms. We share them with portors along the way. Board the bus and head to kilometre 82, where the trek begins. Our portars way our duffle bags and they can´t exceed 6kg. Aimey has to take out a Gatorade but then we´re ready to go. We go through the check point, get a fancy stamp in our passports and we´re off! The altitude is high but lower than Cusco. Even so, the sun is intense. I apply and re-apply SPF 30 throughout the day. We take a lot of breaks and our guides, Manual and Roddy, ensure that we´re all okay. We arrive at our lunch spot to a round of applause from the portors and wash basins for our hands. We eat an incredible meal of pasta, chicken, potatoe salad and tea. We hike more that day and after about 6 hours we arrive at our campsite. The scenery is beautiful and there are warm wash basins outside our tents to wash our dirty feet, hands and faces. We relax for a few hours before dressing in our winter best and head lamps and wander out of our tents to look at the stars. I see the southern cross! Dinner is, once again, fantastic. Early bed after using the squat-then-flush toilets. Thankfully one of the Irish ladies has peppermint oil to put under your nose!!!
Day 3
Wake at 6am with Roddy knocking on our tent with Coca tea and then head ot the tent for breakfast at 6:30. It´s oatmeal, omlete and bread. Today is going to be the toughest day. We hike to the top of Dead Woman´s Pass at an elevation of over 4000 meters. It´s short but gruelling. We head off in the cool weather, thankful that the sun is not pounding down on us. We start to climb. We climb and climb and climb and I think that if I see another stair, I will cry!!! It begins to rain. And then hail. Then wind and sleet. And we are still climbing stairs for 4 hours!!!We see a Llama, which is a good photo op, as well as a good time for a rest. Andres (Denmark) and Aimey head ahead, while Signe ( Denmark) and I work slowly and steadily. EVerything I have is wet, I´m cold and my breathing becomes increasingly laboured because of altitude but I see the sumit and Roddy is there with a big hug!! Now, we have to descend. We´re wondering how long this will take. We´re hungry and tired of eating Snickers. It´s raining and cold and so we start to sing. Every song we can think of with "sun" inthe title. They include:
- You are my Sunshine
- Tomorrow (from the hit broadway musical and John XXIII production of Annie!)
- Let the Sun Shine in
And it stops raining.....for 10 minutes
The steps down for the next 2 hours are actually harder for me because of my bad knees. I slow down. I´m getting tired. Aimey is setting a good pace and I´m trying to keep up. Finally we make it to camp for lunch. At 5pm our cook, Boris, presents us with a cake and we sit in the tent until dinner at 7. We are camping at about 3800meters and so it´s very cold and very damp. And the rain sets in --- not before giving us a stunning view of the Andes .
(I should say, at this point, that all this talk of rain might sound like complaining. It{s not. It really was bad. Our guide has done this trek over 100 times and he said his has rained but he{s never before had to use his poncho!!)
Day 4
This was to be our long day. Our long descent down the trail. We begin in the cold and wet with a 5:30 wake up call. It´s all downhill today, which is hard on the knees. There is no sun and the rain won´t let up. My clothes weren´t dry from the night before. But in the few breaks we do get we see the scenery around us and when there isn´t fog, we realize what a beautiful place this is. Lunch was fantastic and after Peruvian potatoe pancakes, we were treated to Irish Colm singing "And the Band Played the Waltzing Matilda". It had us all close to or in tears. For those of you not familiar with the song, it is about Australian soildiers during WWI who were wounded in Gallipolli. Before he headed back on the trail in the rain, Welsh Gemma and I had to visit the ladies room and it was neither a sitting toilet, nor a flushing one. Shall we say hole in the ground? And a guy was in there while we were waiting and when he came out he said to us "Sorry" - as if it was his fault the place stunk like a combination of a dead animal and human feces. But then we realized why he was apologizing!! Apparently he was not able to keep things in either and missed the hole altogether! We were mortified but felt that any toilet we saw from that point one would be considered a golden throne. (Side note: it is amazing how much you talk about barfing and pooping with complete strangers while travelling. But it does seem to be a hot topic of conversation - even around the dinner table!) We contineu on to camp and arrive at our final spot (still in the rain) to a place with a pub and showers. Now, I don{t want you to think this was luxury. The "pub" was more like a ski lodge that had been left abandoned years ago but with a few bottles of beer hanging around. It was cold, though, and that is what mattered! Aimey and I opted out of the showers (why get washed and into clean clothes which are just going to get wet again!) and instead, induldged in a half beer before supper. Supper was at 6pm and we had a chance to formally thank our portors. Colm gave us another song - this time it was You{ve Got a Friend by James Taylor. We all knew the chorus so we joined in. It then became a bit of a sing-song. Danish Signe had us up and singing and jumping to a Danish kids song about the days of the week and Irish Anne gave a beautiful Celtic love song. Then it was to bed in the wet tent to be ready for our early rise the next day!
Day 5
Wake up call was 4am. Yes, folks. 4 bloody in the morning! The point was to get to the Sun Gate for sunrise to see the sun coming up over Machu Picchu. Unfortuneately I slept well only until about 2:30 when I was awoken by someone snoring. It sounded like a cross between a very loud zipper and a chain saw. Aimey and plotted how we would best kill said sleeping monster until we were somewhat laughing at the insanity and somewhat wishing we could get to sleep. Let me remind you, once again, that it was still raining at this point! 4 am wake up call and we get dressed and packed and down for breakfast. I beg for a plastic bag for my back pack and we all meet in the "ski lodge / pub". Manual, our guide, suggests we wait a bit for the other groups to get their first. Otherwise, we{re all at the gate at the same time, waiting and getting more wet. When we eventually got our energy enough to get going, we grabbed our walking sticks, turned on our head lamps (it{s dark at 5 am in the Andes) and marched single file toward our destination. We were a quiet bunch. I think we were all secretly disappointed with the weather and hoping, against all odds, it would clear before we arrived. I felt like a minor, heading into the depths of the earth looking for coal. In my head, I heard an old Cape Breton Song:
"We get up in the black, down the coal town road
And we hike along the track, where the coal trains load
And you make the ponies pull, till they nearly break their backs
And they´ll never see again, down the coal town road."
As we walked, we realized we were getting closer and - by God!! - I think there{s blue sky!! Okay, not really, but we were hoping. We reached the sun gate and Welsh Gemman and Matt are shouting "There it is! There it is!" And Aimey is helping me get my camera out because it has stopped raining and you can see Machu Picchu between the fog. And the minute I get my camera out of the plastic bag, out of the case, get the lense cap off and focus --- the bloody Inca city disappears behind the fog and stays there for a good 20 minutes. We decide to head down to get another view and the rain is holding off!!! It{s still holding off when we round the bend and get another view. And, what{s this? The fog is lifting too? THANK YOU, INCA SUN GODS!!!!! This was our reward. We deserved it!! It was beautiful. We kept wandering down. Our pace was slower because every time we caught a glimpse of the city we had to snap as many pictures as we could, just incase this fog jumped between us and our reward.
We spend the morning around Macchu Picchu and realize what a great achievement it was to build. So impressive. Our guide drags our sorry and tired legs around with the enthusasim of a teacher trying to get his grade 9 students to care about Canadian politics..... A few of decide to make our way to Agua Calientes down below where we are going to get our swimsuites and sit in the hot baths. We are nearly involved in a head on collision on our way down but when we make it and lower our bodies into the pools (they were pretty grosse but we didn{t care!), we sighed and thought "Wow....we did it!!"
We boarded a train for Cusco at 5pm and we were quiet. Very quiet. It rattled along the Andes toward the town most of us were either asleep or taking some time to reflect on the journey. We did it and it was worth it!
Peru in Pictures
Tuesday, July 21, 2009
Protestors in Peru
Do you ever feel like you´are in one of those Imodium ads?
Our first few days in Lima were nothing to write home about - so I didn´t! We spent the first day wandering the dirty smoggy streets of what seemed like any other big city. Aimey saw and ad on TV for a Peru vs. Cuba volleyball game so in the dark we hopped on a taxi and he took us to the stadium. Are there rules on the road? Not really. Hold on! As we approached, an aggressive scalper was trying to sell us tickets. He held onto my window and didn´t let go until the crazy driver turned the corner. He kept harassing us and we fought our way to front to ask security where to get tickets. Surely we should buy from a scalper infront of security -- but that´s what we have to do! We paid $4 each and got to watch the game. It was a lot of fun but we were concerned about getting a taxi back so we left a set early. Cuba was up 2 sets to 1.
Day 3 we wandering around again and then met with our GAP group. We all went for dinner at a great Peruvian restaurant and I, against, my better judgement, order a soupa de la mar. (Seafood soup). It was terrible and ended up right back in the toilet of the said restaurant. It didn´t look any better coming up as it did going down! This, my friends, was the start of my problems.
Day 4 we boarded a flight for Cusco with our group. Flying over the Andes was beautiful. Bright skys, white clouds, little villages. As we landed I started to feel ill. Then I started to sweat. I was sitting next to the window and all the passengers were in the aisles to leave. We were near the back. How was I going to get out of here? THankfully, there was a door in the back - near the toilet. Barf bag in hand, I locked myself in there and got rid of everythign I thought was in my stomach. The lovely stewardess knocking on the door and me replying "un momento, por favor". When I got out she was standing there with a glass of coca tea saying " you drink all of it. ALL OF IT". Aimey was waiting on the tarmac in the sunshine and I wandered to get my bags.
We got to the hotel for another meeting (during which I visited yet ANOTHER bathroom) where we got all of our info for the trek. At this point I was thinking "what if I can´t go. What if I need to stay back?" I spent the rest of the day sleeping in the hotel. I didn´t see any of Cusco. Thank God for Aimey. We had one day, and one day only to book our trip to the Amazon, extra nights in Cusco and nights in Peurto Maldonado. I was dilirious. She left on her adventure and when she returned this was here recount:
- She waited in one bank wiht number 500 (#300 was on the screen) for the bank to finally tell her they don´t accept mastercard! Running around the streets trying to find a bank that did - thank God there are Scotiabanks everywhere. She had to pay for the lodge in cash
-leaving in a t-shirt and freezing when she got back after dark. The tempurature here dips about15 - 20 degrees each day.
-having a man try to steal her camera
-No one speaks English
-needing my passport number to book our flights but not having it so phoning me at the hotel but I didn´t answer because I was out of it and so calling the desk and lying to them and telling them she was me and she needed the number. They gave it to her!!
-Taking a taxi back here so she didn´t miss our meeting and getting ripped off but knowing this, she refused to pay the amount the driver was going to give her.
-Total Amazing Race style
So then we have another meeting which the entire group now knows that I can keep nothing down or in and that not being able to flush toilet paper down the toilet but put it in the basket next to the toilet is awful when you´re sick!! They were sympathetic. The guide did applaud our decision to take rehydration salts which I sipped throughout the meeting. After all this we find we might not even be leaving today! There is a bus strike (apparently) and so we might not get ot see the Sacred Valley and instead will just be driven to our starting point tonight. I will be disappointed because we were going to visit weavers and markets but secretly a little happy to be able to see Cusco - and not just the toilets in it!!!
Thursday, July 16, 2009
Anna's Suitcase Goes to Lima
Monday, July 13, 2009
Day 6: Getting Screeched-In
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Day 5: St. John's Sightseeing
Day 4: Wedding in Placentia!
Friday, July 10, 2009
Day 3: Newfoundland
Cousin Jaime and I giving ourselves a reminder of what we may need to get home after we have too much fun at the wedding - a wheel chair! We're hoping to be able to stand long enough to dance - maybe even try to remember the Highland Fling. So, as I look out to the sea, I'm signing off thankful for family and good times.
Thursday, July 9, 2009
Day 2: Newfoundland
It is so serene and so peaceful here......(this is the view from my room)
It sort of feels like when I was in Iceland.... (this was the view from my house then)
And then I SET OFF THE SMOKE DETECTOR!!!!! I was only making toast....
St. John's was great. My room was upgraded because of a mix up (I think) and my parents arrived earlier to get me out of a dorm and into this comfy room. I think Cousin Jaime will join me next Sunday when I come back. We'll "do George Street" and recover in this little sanctuary with our bacon sandwiches....
Tuesday, July 7, 2009
Anna's Suitcase Sees the Atlantic
Truth be told, this isn't the first time my suitcase has seen the Atlantic. Actually, it's seen the Atlantic more than the Pacific, and I'm closer to the west. But this little suitcase has been to Nova Scotia a bazillion times, Ireland and Iceland. (I wish I'd been to Iceland a bazillion times - it's amazing). My family comes from Newfoundland. My grandparents (DJ and Mary) lived in St. John’s before they moved to Cape Breton. But I’ve never been there. So, cousin Joey is getting married to Newfie Julie and while I debated even going to the wedding (how on earth would I find time to do what I needed to do if I’m in Placentia?), my mom said, quite rightly, that when it comes to family you’ll never regret doing something like this. And she’s right. So here I sit in the Toronto airport with some time to kill, I’m tired because I had to get up early and I stayed up late watching Departures (Scott and Justin are crrrraaazy….). My flight to St. John’s will board in an hour. I have absolutely nothing planned in Newfoundland, except for the wedding. We’ll see what happens. Cousin Jaime and I are planning a good long heart to heart in a canoe tied to the dock. We’ll put on life jackets, drink some beers and maybe she’ll play the mandolin. Maybe I’ll see a puffin. Maybe I’ll kiss the cod (oh God I hope not!) or maybe I’ll run into one of my students who is also in “The Rock”. (Do Newfoundlanders say “in the Rock” or “on the Rock” or “by the Rock” or “geez bye, gotta love the rock!” Either way….
Yesterday was my final foray into the Calgary Stampede. You know, as a kid, I really like the movie City Slickers. As an adult, I actually get to experience itfor 10 days EVERY JULY!!! (Note the sarcasm) I went with Ang down to the grounds where we met Aimey after her shift for some greasy, over priced food. As we walked near the Agriculture building (we couldn’t go in because of the smell) I realized that I’m more City than I am Slicker. Give me deep friend Oreos or a corndog any day over watching cows eat hay. It’s just not me. Ang and I went down to watch Serena Ryder who was playing at 3pm. Well, at 12:30 she phoned me (Ang, not Serena – although that would have been cool too) to tell me that there was a 100% chance of rain. 100% chance! That’s not chance, really, is it? It’s more of a certainty and if I was a weatherman I would avoid making grandiose claims of 100% chance - just incase. Plus, you never have to be certain of anything if you’re a weatherman. Stick to 90% chance. Even go as high as 98%. But one-hundred? Really, Mr. Weatherman, you have the only job in the world where you never have to be certain of anything or at least being uncertain will always work in your favour. You could say there is a 2% chance of a rain, and if it rains, you were right! “There is a slim chance that we will have a snow storm this Canada Day. That’s right, folks. There IS a slim chance.” Then, no snow! What is the response of said weatherman? “Thank goddness for the sun. We avoided that snowstorm yesterday. Now for today’s forecast…..there is a 5% chance that it will literally rain cats and dogs today. Ditch the umbrellas, just stay indoors and put out a dish of water. Just incase.” Why, if you could say things like that, would you ever say there was a 100% chance of anything?
But it did rain. And it rained. And it rained.
We grabbed corn dogs and ribbon fries and huddled under an awing until the rain lightened it. It didn’t lighten up. We were soaked. So, we huddled by a door to listen to Serena Ryder, got tired and went for deep friend Oreos. Yum!
To avoid the rain we decided to choose a free event where we could sit. It happened only to be Super Dogs. What could possibly be that super about dogs? As it turns out, not much. A guy in a white suit saying things like “Wow, Earmuffs, good job running through this tunnel!” Super.
We met Aimey and then made our way to the CBC booth to get some cool uber Canadian swag for me to take to Rwanda. An American may don a Maple Leaf abroad but I’d be hard press to say I’d ever met a Texan with the CBC logo on their bag and a t-shirt of Peter Mansbridge. I got a pin. Aimey took a chance at anchoring the news. Funnily enough, it was the weather report.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
When I Was Younger
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Hmmmm what else can I pack?
I haven't posted in a little while and since then I really feel like I have hit the ground running. Well, except for this exact moment. Right now I'm enjoying Canada Day with a cup of coffee and listening to Griffen House. So a quick Happy Canada to everyone out there!