Reflections on Kigali and Moving to Kibungo

Reflections on Kigali

Monday September 7, 2009

I am nearing the end of my In Country Training in Kigali. I feel like now I am finally starting to do what I was brought here to do. Since arriving bleary-eyed, groggy and still on Mountain Time, I think I’ve already learned so much. We’ve been spoiled at this guest house – reliable electricity and running water (mine hasn’t gone off once), even if the showers are cold! Food is prepared for us (even if it is the same thing every meal). The place is clean (even if I think there is something dead in my bathroom because it smells like rotten mouse). We’ve developed into a little family here too and I think I will miss the camaraderie of the new volunteers. Having said that, it’s time to begin my job. Today all us mzungus went into town to spend our living grant. I’m lucky to be moving into a house with another volunteer and one that had just been vacated. Everything we need is in the house, so I didn’t have to spend my money on jerry cans but rather bought us an electric toaster! We all had to buy sheets, blankets, buckets and the like. Then we piled our things into a truck so it could be taken back to our guest house. We were a sight and the attraction for the moment. Following that we had a briefing from the British Ambassador. VSO began in the UK and as a result, we are all able to access support from the British Embassy. Good thing too, considering the Canadian Embassy didn’t exactly bring out the welcoming committee. Both the British and American Embassies have weekly events. The Canadians – not so much. They are probably all over at the British Embassy for their Thursday night pub. All in all, Rwanda seems to be the darling of Africa and an example of what is going right. The biggest safety is the potential for dangerous earth quakes.

 

So – what’s life been like here in the big city? Our laundry gets down for us. Hand washed and hung to dry, ironed and returned to you – although I’m still waiting for clothes from Thursday. Bonus to this that, although the handwashing is rough on clothes, they are not dried in a dryer so your jeans always fit when you put them on. None of those lunges across the bedroom floor just so your ass can breathe a little bit. Shopping in Kigali is great! Well, not NYC great but you can get what you need. Some things are more expensive than others (a bottle of contact lens solution is, if I do the math right, is close to $50) everything you need is available. Tina is a fan of marshmallows I’ve picked up a bag to bring with me to Kibungo. There were three bags in the entire town of Kigali and certainly not like the marshmallows we have back home. Choice here is limited in comparison, that is until I saw a local man in a Sport Chek uniform! That’s right folks, a SPORT CHEK uniform!! The company that is my nemesis (insofar as its possible for a person to have a greedy corporation as its nemesis). I had to laugh and of course texted Emily right away to tell her. It should go without saying but there isn’t an actual Sport Chek in Kigali – just the shirt. If he was an employee he surely would have asked to “put his number” on anything I was carrying.

 

The weather has been great. Hot during the day (maybe around 30 degrees) but the nights are comfortable. Unfortunately women can’t wear shorts here and skirts aren’t always comfortable. What women will never admit, but I will always complain about, is that in hot weather your thighs rub together in a skirt and honestly, it is SO uncomfortable. Come on girls! Admit it. It happens to you to. Surely, I can’t be the only one. Bonus to having to wear pants all the time is that shaving your legs (in freezing water, not to mention the cost of razors) does not have to happen frequently. The downside, no tan. My feet are getting the sun. Yesterday I thought my feet were covered in dust and dirt but it turns out that, after a little rinse in the cold water, the rest was actually what you call a “tan.” The sun here isn’t hot enough to warrant sunscreen on warm days, even for me. The dust and diesel, however, is enough to have me running toward Tanzania (which I will be doing Wednesday, as I’m an hour or so from the border). The rains will start soon. It feels like it does back home when there is a build up to a storm. The temperature will drop a few degrees and the wind picks up. The sky turns grey but then it doesn’t rain. It heats up again. We are watching the sky with anticipation. In fact, the other day at lunch someone noticed it was sprinkling outside, ran to the door and turned to say “It’s raining!” It’s akin to Canadians looking out the window mid-October and saying “It’s snowing!” We both know that it isn’t the REAL thing but we’re excited to see the change of seasons which I have always felt is important in indicating the passage of time.

 

I’ve learned that Rwandans have a sixth sense, which I have yet to hone in on. They have an ability to walk, run, bike, play soccer and “beep” each other on cell phones in the pitch black. How they manage to avoid collisions with each other, with vehicles and with potholes and drainage systems all over is a mystery to me. You’ll be walking along when all of a sudden there is a person saying “Miriwe!” You’re in their face before you have a chance to respond. Thankfully MTN cell phones are equipped with flashlights. Good for seeing the holes and ensuring that vehicles see you as well. The best part about In Country Training has been the people I’ve met. We seem to be able to meet for meals and have conversations with ease. I think that, without saying it, we’re all a little bit apprehensive about what to expect but know that the support network we’ve established in the last week or so will serve us well in the next year. So, Kibungo on Wednesday! What will life be like there? Keep posted to find out!

 

Oh and speaking of keeping “posted” – if anyone was going to “post” something to me, here are the things I’ve been craving/wishing for:  Reese Peanut Butter Cups, Visine (for my dry eyes) and nice smelling candles. You know, incase my family is reading this blog!

  

Welcome to Kibungo, Rwanda

Wednesday September 9^th

 

I have arrived! Wow! I can’t believe I’m actually sitting here, in my bedroom in Kibungo. I don’t live in Kibungo town but on the highway in Kibungo Secteur which is in Ngoma District, in the Eastern Province of Rwanda. There are only 5 provinces in the country, including Kigali. I have a double bed and a mosquito net and a chair and a cupboard. I feel like a queen. I’m totally overwhelmed at the moment. I have met so many people and seen so many things that my head is spinning. My house is wonderful. Tina had been to the market and bought material for art for the walls and curtains for the bathroom. She’d also bought food for Jason and I so that we had something to eat when we arrived. She also told our domestique to make sure my room was really clean because she knows I hate spiders. I met Suzanne who is the head master at a school in Remera Secteur and Bosco who is the charge for Sport, Youth and Culture in Ngoma District. I’ve also met Victor who is the Director of Education for the district. I’ve met Epi, a Rwandan-Canadian teaching near by, a girl named Anna, our domestique named Julie and our guard named Jean De Dieu. (Yes, John of God is the translation). I’ve also met Danny from England who is teaching teachers how to use computers at Suzanne’s school. Jason, Tina, Suzanne and I went for mélange lunch (basically Rwanda buffet). I opened a bank account and then we went to the market. I unpacked and Tina boiled water for our new filter. Tina and I made fruit salad and guacamole (okay, she made it, I helped) and after a fit of yawning at the table, I headed to bed. I’m getting settled in but will admit that I’m terribly overwhelmed and may be having a case of the “How will I do this for an entire year!?!!?!?!” I suppose I thought that when I got to Kigali and got used to that pretty quickly. When my head stops spinning, I’ll tell you more. Miss you all!

Family Dinner

I am immensely enjoying my last 2 days with technology. It's Sunday and we all have the day off. So, a number of us are here again! I think that when we go to our placements that will change but we are taking advantage. The wireless at this cafe is so fast that I downloaded all these pictures in less than 3 minutes and I Skyped with Aimey. That's the best invention ever. The world seems so small. Last night we had our VSO Family Dinner. All volunteers and staff met for a giagantic dinner. There must have been 45 or 50 of us all over the country. We played games and then watched traditional dancing. It was amazing! I took some pictures but it's so hard in this country because at night, the flash reflects off the dust particles in the air. Honestly, the dust is so bad. At night it just looks like fog, but then you realize that it's the brown / red earth. I met so many volunteers, including Tina who will be my neighbour for the next few months. She has been so welcoming. Apparently the house is full of bees right now. On the list of creatures has included ants, fleas, bed bugs, a tarantula, beens, mouse and a rat. I figure that they won't come back. I'm hoping. Apparently I have a mango tree too and according to Tom (the volunteer that just left) I have the best bed of all VSO volunteers. After dinner we took a taxi to a bar to watch a Rwandan reggae band. It wasn't a late night but by Anna standards, it was late. Today has been a lazy day with a walk to the VSO office to get another novel (they have loads of them!) and to Kimironko market. 

Traditional dancing with the singers and drummers in the background.

Out and about. We could not get Karen to keep her eyes open!

Kimironko market. See the mzungus walking towards us.

September Goes to: My Parents!

As promised, for those of you who generously donated to CUSO-VSO under my name, I sold you a month. I sold September to my parents who are great and have been so supportive with everything. My dad just went out to find a better adaptor for me and I'm hoping (hint, hint) to get a care package with some things from home. The last few years have been crazy (to say the least) but my parents have been nothing but supportive of my decisions. I know it was hard to say good bye to me at the airport, and my jokes about me being in danger were not well received, but my parents have been here for me through everything. Just wanted to give you props on the blog, Mom and Dad. Thank you for everything! I love you.

You can laugh but we ALL looked like this in 80s.

Wireless is a volunteer's best friend!

I am at a BEAUTIFUL hotel called Chez Lando and they have wireless. A bunch of us decided to hop on motos (motorcycles) and come up. Driving was fun and much less scary than Peru - maybe because it's a law here to where a helmet. Of course, it was much too big so I had one hand holding on to the seat behind (it's a big No No to hold onto the driver) and one hand to keep my helmet on. But, being here gives me a chance to upload pictures fast and furiously. No sitting in stinky internet cafes. I think it's worth saving my pennies and coming here occasionally. I've taken the "comments" part out of the blog because I wasn't reading them but I'd certainly love to hear from you all. Just send me an email to my yahoo account or to my facebook. Miss you all!

VSO Rwanda office. 

Kigali street near our guest house. 

The bus stop to get to mumuji (in town) just below the internet cafe

Learning how to use our water filter (silver thing), kerosene stoves (green) and lamps (blue). Electric stoves are impractical as power cuts are frequent and electricity can be expensive.

Playing BINGO Kinyarwanda style at the pub.

Practicing our numbers is so much more fun with beer!

Visit to "register" at the Canadian embassy. No need to go - all travellers and ex-pats can register online. So, the visit was a waste but at least I got to see a smiling picture of Harper - I miss that SO much!

Putting on the totally ineffective helmet. 

Connecting with friends and family at Chez Lando. 

Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre

I’m still eating goat but today there were mini-pizza type things that were a welcome change from our menu here at Amani guest house. Our typical breakfast consists of white bread, one egg omelet, jam and nutella-type spread. Lunch: beans, rice, friend potatoes, fried fish, goat in sauce, pineapple for dessert, Fanta. Supper: see lunch. Really, it’s fine. Enjoying things and learning a lot. Spider count is at the 3. Not making nearly the same noises when I have to take a cold shower. I leave for Kibungo on Wednesday and I’m looking forward to having a home for a year. I’ve been transient since the end of May and would like to just settle down!

 

Today we went visited the Genocide Memorial Centre (www.kigalimemorialcentre.org). You know, I arrived in Rwanda knowing about the genocide. I’d seen Hotel Rwanda, I’d read about the genocide and I tried to prepare myself. I’ll admit that seeing the first UN truck on day one was a bit off-putting and made me very uneasy. Surely, it should make me uneasy. As I told you before, I’m reading a powerful book about the genocide. In fact, I’ve talked about this with other volunteers. I wish I’d had time to read it before I got here. I thought I was doing the smart thing by reading it in the place where it all happened, but I regret that now. When I come across a location (a church, a district, a road) in Kigali that’s describe in the book, I can picture it all happening there. Churches where people came to get protection and help, were used to lure victims before they were massacred. It’s very distressing and I’ve actually been near tears during the whole read. As I said before, though, it’s my responsibility to read it, but it’s hard. So, today, as part of our In Country Training, we visited the Memorial Centre. It’s been opened for 5 years now and its intention is to develop education programs for youth, as well as a place of remembrance. There are mass graves at the site (Rwandans were still burying their dead up to 9 years after the genocide at these graves) that are not unlike those at Bergen-Belsen and certainly just as terrifying. It’s embarrassing that Romeo Dallaire warned the UN of situation in Rwanda and but was refused a mandate to act. Apparently the international force that was used to repatriate citizens back to their country when the genocide began would have been enough to stop it all together! I was okay for most of this, until I visited a room dedicated to the children who were massacred. Large pictures of children are on the walls with descriptions of their age, favourite food, characteristics and lastly, how they were killed. One picture included the child’s last words which were “Mom, where can I run to?” I don’t know if it would be possible to visit this centre without crying. I won’t go into more detail about it. I guess, suffice to say, it was powerful and an important part of our understanding of Rwanda and what it has suffered.  

Early days in Kigali

Monday August 31, 2009

Today was the first day of training and very valuable. Breakfast was at 7am and most volunteers don’t arrive until about 7:30 (training isn’t until 8:30) but I just can’t seem to sleep in. I’m in bed early and then up with the sun. I lie in bed and read a bit before jumping into the moderately warm shower. I’ve figured it out but it’s not important to me to have warm water because I don’t want to be spoiled now. Training started with brief introductions and then our country director gave us a briefing about health and security. I suppose it could have been overwhelming but the message that I took away from it was that Rwanda is safe (apparently second safest on the continent next to Eritrea) but that there are emergency procedures in place in case of an emergency. I have full confidence that nothing will happen. My house in Kibungo has been designated a safe house so that , in the event of an emergency and we can’t get to Kigali, we go there. Quick trip for me. I appreciate the thoroughness, that’s for sure. Health wise, there are good hospitals and doctors but don’t swim in the lakes and keep talking your malaria pills! After a break, Jason and I met with our Program Manager. We will both be living in Kibungo but working with different schools. Jason spent two years in a similar role in Eritrea and I am so thankful that someone with experience and knowledge will be just down the road! Lunch was served and then we all boarded a bus to Kigali centre where we got a small tour. I bought a phone! You can text me, if you want or (if you’re feeling rich) call me! Rwandans, and by extension, VSO volunteers are glued to their “mobiles”. It’s just not part of Canadian culture as it is here. More people have cell phones than access to the internet (like four times more!) and land lines really never developed after the genocide. I suppose the country just skipped the land line step and it seems to have worked. I guess I’ll have to get good and texting. Four of us needed a phone so an American volunteer, Portia, was wise enough to bring DVDs with which we could barter. WE also when with Christian (another Canadian) to get us a deal. Well my phone is up and working and I even got a text from Tina. We saw an area to get clothes made, where to catch long distance busses and a bookstore. I bought a French conjugation book to help me. Last night I listened to a French conversation and understood it all. I just need to get up the confidence to speak. Everyone is very supportive and when I do speak, they seem to understand me – or are just being polite! We also drove passed the American embassy (imposing white building, gigantic flag and all), drove passed government buildings, the hospital and the dentist. How I will manage to get back there if I need it, I don’t know.

NB: I just killed a gigantic flying beetle thing in my room! I have already killed one spider but I’ve let the lizard living in and around my room live – and his little baby too!


Tuesday September 1st

Today was a great day. I wasn’t so sure last night when the bass thumping from a nearby church threatened to keep me up. But under my mosquito net I find comfort. Not that I’m scare of malaria, but it’s like having my own little hidaway. However, at 4am I got up to use the washroom and could not get to sleep. I think my body has not fully adjusted to the time. However, 4am in Rwanda means 8pm in Calgary. I thought I’d try my luck and text Aimey. Well, I got no response (which didn’t surprise me given the cost!) so I pulled out my book. I’m reading “We Wish To Inform You That Tomorrow we Will be Killed with our Families” by Philip Gourevitch. It’s about the genocide. I waited to read it until I arrived simply because I needed a context. The places and landscapes that are describe seem much more real. It’s terrifying to read, really, but I think it’s my responsibility. So I read that for about a half an hour or so before I decided I’d try to get some rest. No sooner had I closed my eyes than the unfamiliar ringtone woke me. (I’ve chosen something moderately enjoyable – insofar as a ringtone can be enjoyed). It was Aimey! I familiar voice! I think it must have cost a fortune but was a much needed connection back home. (I know you’re all thinking “How on earth will she manage a year???” It’s beginning stages now, friends. I’ll be FINE!) We chatted and then back to sleep – until the sun came up and the birds started making themselves heard.

Our first lesson of Kinyarwanda was great! Officially I can tell you “Si nitwa, mzungu. Nitwa, Anna.” Translation: I’m not called a Mzungu (white man). I’m Anna. I can wish you good morning, good afternoon and good evening. It’s an incredibly hard language but I’m managing. After that we took a trip to the VSO Rwanda office. What a place of great work. They work in education (including HIV/Aids awareness and Global partnerships), disability and national volunteering. We toured the resource centre including a large selection of moderately appealing books (I think the good ones are out!) and met with our Program Manager. We got our VSO ID cards and the office has our passports so we can get our work visas. Once we have that we apply for resident cards (good ID and half price off gorilla tracking!). One of the finance workers had just had a baby so we asked her how to say “Congratulations” in Kinyarwanada and her response was “There is now word for it it Kinyarwanda. People just say ‘go back and have more babies!’” Back to the guest house for lunch and a session on finance. We got our money!! We have a small allowance for household equipment (100,000 Rwandan francs seems like a lot but it’s really not). Finally a session on Rwandan culture. Here are a few things that I learned:
1. People will hold hands when talking to you
2. Don’t eat in public
3. What you buy in a store should be put in a bag and not kept in public
4. Women don’t whistle
5. Common for same sex people to hold hands but not the opposite.
6. Rwandans are generous people
7. Greeting people morning, afternoon, on the street is important
After this a “quick” trip to the internet café. 30 minutes to read 4 emails and respond to 2. This is how “fast” it was. Met a gentleman working north on a housing project. Saw a man being carried away by police. Stood at the café (which is on the second floor) and just took it all in. The sun goes down early so we got back after dark but compared to Bolivia, I feel so safe here. Although, there are few street lights so walking is actually treacherous. I think the most danger I’ve felt so far is falling into the large holes that litter the streets. We did return safely and after dinner had a “study session” of Kinyarwanda. My brain is full now but my I’m so happy to be here. I feel like I’ve done the right thing by coming and want to extend an invitation to all of my friends and family to come visit anytime!

Wednesdsay September 2, 2009

I’m sitting in the dark typing because there is only one plug for my computer and the battery was getting low and while I could get up and get my head lamp, I’m entirely too lazy. Today was a great day (beware: I’m sure all days will be great as I am not likely to write about the terrible days for the entire world to hear). We began with Kinyarwanda lessons in the morning. We learned about professions and how to say we are from Canada. Then we learned our numbers from 1 to 50. I’m starting to understand a bit of the grammar but am still having trouble with proununcation. After this a break to head to the internet. I had such grand ideas. Our walk there we passed by a guy working on his car who told us we MUST greet him every morning! We arrived to find that most computers didn’t work and, for the four of us, only two were available. So, Irish Karen and I sat and had to leave every once and a while. The heat and stench were unbareable. Sort of cross between dead mice and feet. Eventually I got on a computer and that’s when my stomach started to act up. Until now I’ve felt great (except for the anti-malaria pills induced head ache) but my stomach began making noises. So, before I’d sent any emails or uploaded any pictures I shut it all down (after 20 minutes had still not accomplished anything) and rushed out! Est-ce qu’il ya une salle de bain???? S’IL VOUS PLAIT??? People don’t normally ask this question but the great guy who runs the internet café and knows us all by now asked a man to take me. We chatted (ie. I said hello in Kinyarwanda and then spoke French) and he told me I need to greet the guard down in the parking low. He had the key and I rushed in, did my business, only to realize that it did not flush! Ahhhhh…okay, dump some water and soap powder down and hope for the best. I was not feeling in top form on the way back until two little boys ran up to us for big hugs!

In the afternoon I met Bruce who is an Education manager and we talked about management issues we’ll come up against. The situation in schools is terrible. Schools run on a two cycle rotation. The first group of students attend from the early morning until lunch. There is a 30 minute or so break for the teacher and the second group come until 5pm. Class sizes are officially under 50 but many are not. There are no substitutet teachers so when teachers are sick or die, the Chef de classe may keep disruptions down but usually the class will remain teacherless. Overall, teachers are willing but terrified to try new things (such as getting students involved in their own learning) for fear of failure. When I evaluate teachers I have to fill out, formal, stamped Ministry of Education form that is in quadruplicate! It goes to the head teacher and could go as far as the director. I’d be nervous too!! That part made me a bit apprehensive about my role. I certainly don’t know everything and I don’t want that perception to be made. Often teacher walk far to school, don’t have food, have a second job (teaching pays very little) and don’t speak English well, even though that’s the language of instruction. Head teachers (same as a school principal) are often away from the school (at another job or at meetings) and often don’t spend time in the classrooms.

I have given myself two goals today: 1) Get head teachers involved in teacher evaluation. Encourage them to sit in and begin a culture of evaluation so that it begins to be part of a teacher’s week to expect to see the head teacher. 2) Encourage teachers to take risks in teaching, try new things and help student get involved in the learning process instead of old school LHOP(Little House on the Prairie) style teaching of rote memorization and notes. Having said that, I am fully aware that my goals may be too grandiose for my situation – but I like to aim high!! Things could be entirely different when I get into the school. Before dinner we learned how to use our kerosene stoves and lamps as well as our water filters. Then Christine and I went for a walk. We walked to the store and bought bananas so we’re not so hungry all the time. We spoke French for most of the walk. She’s so helpful and encouraging and my language is slowly improving! We must have heard “Mzungu” about 3 times and 3 times we made sure to tell them we weren’t Mzungus. (Except for the time Christine actually said “I am a mzungu” by mistake). It seems to be sort of a test and as soon as you say “Si nitwa mzungu. Nitwa Anna”, Rwandans seem to say “Yeah, you’re alright…”, except for the little boys who giggle and being to talk to you in English and French. “Good evening,” they say. Dinner again in the dark and then to the pub to play “Bingo” in Kinyarwanda. I’m sure we looked ridiculous getting excited when our “caller” said “cumi na kane” and someone got excited saying “Oh!! I know what that is! It’s 14!! Oh….but I don’t have it on my card.” Yes folks, that ‘someone’ was me.

Thank goodness for good internet cafes!

I am at a FAST internet cafe! And one that does not smell of the combination of dead mouse and rotting feet. It's so nice to be here and my pictures actually uploaded. More to come! Now that I know where to go for a fast download. I haven't brought my large camera out yet but will when I'm in my town. Kigali has been wonderful. I'm learning Kinyarwanda every day and have learned so much about the culture. It's nice to be in a city to start with though because everythign we need is here. I leave for Kibungo next Wednesday. Tomorrow we go to the Genocide Memorial which I'm not looking forward to but is important to understand what happened. Overall, things are great. The volunteers are fantastic, I'm speaking and listening to more French, eating goat, killing spiders and generally enjoying every moment. Longer descriptions of my days are on here too if you're up for it. Or if you need a distraction from work!! Seriously, teacher friends, get the kids colouring maps and now that you have internet in your classroom, you can totally read it! Just kidding Mike! :) Baggage tags Kigali. I was aloud 55 lbs but had 60 lbs. Thankfully everything arrived!
My training binder and VSO ID. I'll also have a working visa and a residence card (so I don't have to carry my passport and so that I can get a discount for gorilla trekking!)

Outside our guest house. Notice the fence....


Practicing Kinyarwanda after dinner.

Flash cards! Muramoke: means "good evening" and Si nitwa Mzungu means: I'm not a Mzungu (white person)