Early days in Kigali

Monday August 31, 2009

Today was the first day of training and very valuable. Breakfast was at 7am and most volunteers don’t arrive until about 7:30 (training isn’t until 8:30) but I just can’t seem to sleep in. I’m in bed early and then up with the sun. I lie in bed and read a bit before jumping into the moderately warm shower. I’ve figured it out but it’s not important to me to have warm water because I don’t want to be spoiled now. Training started with brief introductions and then our country director gave us a briefing about health and security. I suppose it could have been overwhelming but the message that I took away from it was that Rwanda is safe (apparently second safest on the continent next to Eritrea) but that there are emergency procedures in place in case of an emergency. I have full confidence that nothing will happen. My house in Kibungo has been designated a safe house so that , in the event of an emergency and we can’t get to Kigali, we go there. Quick trip for me. I appreciate the thoroughness, that’s for sure. Health wise, there are good hospitals and doctors but don’t swim in the lakes and keep talking your malaria pills! After a break, Jason and I met with our Program Manager. We will both be living in Kibungo but working with different schools. Jason spent two years in a similar role in Eritrea and I am so thankful that someone with experience and knowledge will be just down the road! Lunch was served and then we all boarded a bus to Kigali centre where we got a small tour. I bought a phone! You can text me, if you want or (if you’re feeling rich) call me! Rwandans, and by extension, VSO volunteers are glued to their “mobiles”. It’s just not part of Canadian culture as it is here. More people have cell phones than access to the internet (like four times more!) and land lines really never developed after the genocide. I suppose the country just skipped the land line step and it seems to have worked. I guess I’ll have to get good and texting. Four of us needed a phone so an American volunteer, Portia, was wise enough to bring DVDs with which we could barter. WE also when with Christian (another Canadian) to get us a deal. Well my phone is up and working and I even got a text from Tina. We saw an area to get clothes made, where to catch long distance busses and a bookstore. I bought a French conjugation book to help me. Last night I listened to a French conversation and understood it all. I just need to get up the confidence to speak. Everyone is very supportive and when I do speak, they seem to understand me – or are just being polite! We also drove passed the American embassy (imposing white building, gigantic flag and all), drove passed government buildings, the hospital and the dentist. How I will manage to get back there if I need it, I don’t know.

NB: I just killed a gigantic flying beetle thing in my room! I have already killed one spider but I’ve let the lizard living in and around my room live – and his little baby too!


Tuesday September 1st

Today was a great day. I wasn’t so sure last night when the bass thumping from a nearby church threatened to keep me up. But under my mosquito net I find comfort. Not that I’m scare of malaria, but it’s like having my own little hidaway. However, at 4am I got up to use the washroom and could not get to sleep. I think my body has not fully adjusted to the time. However, 4am in Rwanda means 8pm in Calgary. I thought I’d try my luck and text Aimey. Well, I got no response (which didn’t surprise me given the cost!) so I pulled out my book. I’m reading “We Wish To Inform You That Tomorrow we Will be Killed with our Families” by Philip Gourevitch. It’s about the genocide. I waited to read it until I arrived simply because I needed a context. The places and landscapes that are describe seem much more real. It’s terrifying to read, really, but I think it’s my responsibility. So I read that for about a half an hour or so before I decided I’d try to get some rest. No sooner had I closed my eyes than the unfamiliar ringtone woke me. (I’ve chosen something moderately enjoyable – insofar as a ringtone can be enjoyed). It was Aimey! I familiar voice! I think it must have cost a fortune but was a much needed connection back home. (I know you’re all thinking “How on earth will she manage a year???” It’s beginning stages now, friends. I’ll be FINE!) We chatted and then back to sleep – until the sun came up and the birds started making themselves heard.

Our first lesson of Kinyarwanda was great! Officially I can tell you “Si nitwa, mzungu. Nitwa, Anna.” Translation: I’m not called a Mzungu (white man). I’m Anna. I can wish you good morning, good afternoon and good evening. It’s an incredibly hard language but I’m managing. After that we took a trip to the VSO Rwanda office. What a place of great work. They work in education (including HIV/Aids awareness and Global partnerships), disability and national volunteering. We toured the resource centre including a large selection of moderately appealing books (I think the good ones are out!) and met with our Program Manager. We got our VSO ID cards and the office has our passports so we can get our work visas. Once we have that we apply for resident cards (good ID and half price off gorilla tracking!). One of the finance workers had just had a baby so we asked her how to say “Congratulations” in Kinyarwanada and her response was “There is now word for it it Kinyarwanda. People just say ‘go back and have more babies!’” Back to the guest house for lunch and a session on finance. We got our money!! We have a small allowance for household equipment (100,000 Rwandan francs seems like a lot but it’s really not). Finally a session on Rwandan culture. Here are a few things that I learned:
1. People will hold hands when talking to you
2. Don’t eat in public
3. What you buy in a store should be put in a bag and not kept in public
4. Women don’t whistle
5. Common for same sex people to hold hands but not the opposite.
6. Rwandans are generous people
7. Greeting people morning, afternoon, on the street is important
After this a “quick” trip to the internet café. 30 minutes to read 4 emails and respond to 2. This is how “fast” it was. Met a gentleman working north on a housing project. Saw a man being carried away by police. Stood at the café (which is on the second floor) and just took it all in. The sun goes down early so we got back after dark but compared to Bolivia, I feel so safe here. Although, there are few street lights so walking is actually treacherous. I think the most danger I’ve felt so far is falling into the large holes that litter the streets. We did return safely and after dinner had a “study session” of Kinyarwanda. My brain is full now but my I’m so happy to be here. I feel like I’ve done the right thing by coming and want to extend an invitation to all of my friends and family to come visit anytime!

Wednesdsay September 2, 2009

I’m sitting in the dark typing because there is only one plug for my computer and the battery was getting low and while I could get up and get my head lamp, I’m entirely too lazy. Today was a great day (beware: I’m sure all days will be great as I am not likely to write about the terrible days for the entire world to hear). We began with Kinyarwanda lessons in the morning. We learned about professions and how to say we are from Canada. Then we learned our numbers from 1 to 50. I’m starting to understand a bit of the grammar but am still having trouble with proununcation. After this a break to head to the internet. I had such grand ideas. Our walk there we passed by a guy working on his car who told us we MUST greet him every morning! We arrived to find that most computers didn’t work and, for the four of us, only two were available. So, Irish Karen and I sat and had to leave every once and a while. The heat and stench were unbareable. Sort of cross between dead mice and feet. Eventually I got on a computer and that’s when my stomach started to act up. Until now I’ve felt great (except for the anti-malaria pills induced head ache) but my stomach began making noises. So, before I’d sent any emails or uploaded any pictures I shut it all down (after 20 minutes had still not accomplished anything) and rushed out! Est-ce qu’il ya une salle de bain???? S’IL VOUS PLAIT??? People don’t normally ask this question but the great guy who runs the internet café and knows us all by now asked a man to take me. We chatted (ie. I said hello in Kinyarwanda and then spoke French) and he told me I need to greet the guard down in the parking low. He had the key and I rushed in, did my business, only to realize that it did not flush! Ahhhhh…okay, dump some water and soap powder down and hope for the best. I was not feeling in top form on the way back until two little boys ran up to us for big hugs!

In the afternoon I met Bruce who is an Education manager and we talked about management issues we’ll come up against. The situation in schools is terrible. Schools run on a two cycle rotation. The first group of students attend from the early morning until lunch. There is a 30 minute or so break for the teacher and the second group come until 5pm. Class sizes are officially under 50 but many are not. There are no substitutet teachers so when teachers are sick or die, the Chef de classe may keep disruptions down but usually the class will remain teacherless. Overall, teachers are willing but terrified to try new things (such as getting students involved in their own learning) for fear of failure. When I evaluate teachers I have to fill out, formal, stamped Ministry of Education form that is in quadruplicate! It goes to the head teacher and could go as far as the director. I’d be nervous too!! That part made me a bit apprehensive about my role. I certainly don’t know everything and I don’t want that perception to be made. Often teacher walk far to school, don’t have food, have a second job (teaching pays very little) and don’t speak English well, even though that’s the language of instruction. Head teachers (same as a school principal) are often away from the school (at another job or at meetings) and often don’t spend time in the classrooms.

I have given myself two goals today: 1) Get head teachers involved in teacher evaluation. Encourage them to sit in and begin a culture of evaluation so that it begins to be part of a teacher’s week to expect to see the head teacher. 2) Encourage teachers to take risks in teaching, try new things and help student get involved in the learning process instead of old school LHOP(Little House on the Prairie) style teaching of rote memorization and notes. Having said that, I am fully aware that my goals may be too grandiose for my situation – but I like to aim high!! Things could be entirely different when I get into the school. Before dinner we learned how to use our kerosene stoves and lamps as well as our water filters. Then Christine and I went for a walk. We walked to the store and bought bananas so we’re not so hungry all the time. We spoke French for most of the walk. She’s so helpful and encouraging and my language is slowly improving! We must have heard “Mzungu” about 3 times and 3 times we made sure to tell them we weren’t Mzungus. (Except for the time Christine actually said “I am a mzungu” by mistake). It seems to be sort of a test and as soon as you say “Si nitwa mzungu. Nitwa Anna”, Rwandans seem to say “Yeah, you’re alright…”, except for the little boys who giggle and being to talk to you in English and French. “Good evening,” they say. Dinner again in the dark and then to the pub to play “Bingo” in Kinyarwanda. I’m sure we looked ridiculous getting excited when our “caller” said “cumi na kane” and someone got excited saying “Oh!! I know what that is! It’s 14!! Oh….but I don’t have it on my card.” Yes folks, that ‘someone’ was me.