Planes, Trains and Zebra Crossings?

I've been travelling now for three weeks and today, as I chugged up the hill away from La Paz to the city of El Alto, was reflecting on the different ways I've travelled so far. Planes, trains, buses, motorcycle, mototaxi, collectivo, boats (both powered and not), mountain bike and by good old fashioned walking! Here are some highlights:

Mountain Bike: Aimey and I went with Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking and biked 64km down the World's Most Dangerous Road the other day. It was so named by the Inter-American Development Bank in 1995 (I think) because of the sheer number of deaths recorded on the road. It was averaging around 320 until a new road was opened. The WMDR now really only serves local villages and crazy mountain bikers, so there is some traffic. The reason it's so dangerous? In many spots it's only 3.2 metres wide - barely enough for one vehicle. On one side there are drops of up to 600metres - straight down! In rainy season many parts are washed out. Mostly, though, drivers lose control and many accidents were due to drunk driving. As we biked down, our guide stopped at a few spots for us to peer down the the cliffs to old vans and trucks that had gone off the cliff. When you had a second to take your eyes off the road, you could see crosses lining the road in spots where people had died. Since biking started on the road 12 years ago, 11 bikers have died. How did I feel going in to this, then? Well, officially, if someone is to ask me what the scariest thing I've done in my life is, I would include this! But Gravity Assisted has a great record (none of the deaths were with them) and they take safety very seriously. Plus, we had great weather (it was dry season) and I took my time. It was quite a rush! Pictures will be coming shortly....

Collectivos: In La Paz, you can't help but notice the number of white van-like busses that congest the streets. All have signs in them and people standing in the doorway, shouting the destination. In fact, there are so many crowding the roads, ignoring both traffic police and lights that I think the World's Most Dangerous Intersections have got to be here! Aimey and I have a new game. It's called Traffic Dodge. I've nearly been hit at least 3 times but realize that dodging taxis and collectivos is a bit of an art form. Either way, today we wanted to leave La Paz proper (which is n a valley) and head up towards El Alto for a better view of the city. Collectivos are cheap so we studied what they were shouting, read the signs and hopped in. 15 people crammed into the collectivo (think a small Ecoline van, with lower ceilings and no seatbelts) and headed up the hill. We jumped out and a good time and took some great views. Catching one back was a bit more of a challenge. We stood on the road and as soon as we saw one that said "Prado" on it (where we needed to go) we pointed, it swerved infront of another and slammed on its breaks just after us. We hopped on and away we went!

Traffic in La Paz: so as if dodging traffic was interesting enought....La Paz has thought of a great way to get help deal with the traffic dodging problem. They have teenaged kids dress up in Zebra costumes to act as crossing guards. Why zebras? Apparently, zebras get noticed. We saw them the other night but did not stop to take pictures because we were told they were at the traffic circle every day. However, we have been on the zebra hunt now for two days and can't find them again! We're trying to get a picture but at this point are having little luck.

Today, in addition to visiting El Alto, we toured the Coca museum. The Coca leaf is sacred i Peru and Bolivia. It's been used forever by high altitude living locals as a way to deal with the altitude. Of course, it's also the source of cocaine and it's cultivation a source of international debate. The UN has actually said that the only appropriate use for the Coca leaf is in the production of soda (Coca Cola, specifically) but not for indigenous use. Tell me this isn't one sided. I know that since I've been here, I chewed the Coca leaf regularily on the Inca Trail and swear that it helped me complete the trek without getting sick. I drink Mate de Coca nearly every morning (Coca tea) and even began taking a supplement. Although, in the last few days I feel that I've aclamatized and have stopped taking it.

Tomorrow we take a tourist night bus to a town called Uyuni where we will begin a three day tour in a 4 wheel drive to see the salt flats and a few other sights in southern Bolivia. It's a long journey so everything we read suggests taking the tourist bus. It has a toilet and heating!! However, on our way back, this bus is all booked up, so we'll be on a local night bus. The downside, no heating, no meal, maybe no toilet. That, and the 4WD along the salt flats will be more of an adventure I think.