Friday, August 13, 2010
Photos: Mombasa to Nairobi
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
What's a gazillion minus about 322?
So I was all "we have so many pictures" in my last entry. I think I said that I had about a gazillion or so. That'll learn me..... Oh....and why is Snoopy drowning his sorrows in a glass CabSav?
We arrived in Mombasa happy that we'd outwitted the scam artists in Arusha (No, we will not pay an extra 10,000 for our bags on the bus...no, it's not the law....no, nor will give out 1,000 for tea....). We were thankful when Aimey left her purse at the restaurant it was still there and the taxi drivers in Mombasa were charging fair prices. We were thrilled when some women on the street treated us to masala mangos. We were extra thankful when - unknown to us - Aimey's camera dropped out of her pocket, onto the floor of the bus, picked up by some men who promptly got off the bus but who were noticed by some women on the bus, shouted at (in Swahili so we didn't know what was happening) and then our camera was brought back to us. Aimey swiftly put the camera away in my pack and five minutes later we were getting out at our stop we were thankful for some men to help us out of the matatu (think minivan with 18 people crammed in) with our bags. I'm so used to trusting helpful people here (can't spend my time here suspicious of everyone) that when they were helping, I thought they were just helping.
And then we realized later that night that the camera was gone. Argh.....
Of course we racked our brains but realized that they got about 300 photos and a few videos of the A-Team Travel adventure pilot show that we're shooting..... The good safari photos and us making the top of Kili on on my camera but Aimey's log of Snoopy in Africa is gone. So, SnoopDog had a big glass of red wine while we were sitting on the beach in Tiwi, Kenya over the last few days and he's feeling much better about the whole thing. Sadly, I'm still a bit annoyed that 11months here and I have lost so much as a pound, let alone a camera. It's tainted my view a bit. But just a bit. For every scammer or theif there are 100 honest and caring people that just want to help. I just need to remind myself of that every now and then.
So...to the beach!!! We spent one night in Diani before making our way to a piece of paradise on the Indian Ocean. Margaret and Joseph run the Twiga lodge and after a bumpy taxi ride down the dirt road to get there (the road is known for muggings and we weren't chancing it) we arrived to white sands and palm trees! We're back in Mombasa a little burnt and a little hungover (why do screw top wine bottles have to be so easy to open?) but relaxed and not about to let a missing camera get in the way of a great trip. But seriously, buddy, what are you going to do with a bunch of pictures of Snoopy at Kilimanjaro, Snoopy with the hipps, Snoopy drinking a Primus? Honestly.....
After a dismal night at Diani Classic Guest house (NOT recommended) we caught a bus to Tiwi where Margaret was awaiting our arrival. We'd book the budget double room (no sea view, no breakfast, no hot water and, by the looks of it, no new coat of paint since the early 60s) and quickly changed to the superiour room for a wad more cash but look at the view! Well worth it!
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Safari Inzuri!
So I took nothing short of like a bazillion picture on our safari. (Who knew that I could actually almost fill 8GB in two short weeks. But I did and you all will be spared the slide show and get the shortened "here are a few good ones" blog update. If, however, you're one of the suckers that invites us over to look at our adventure pictures when we return, well....be warned. (And, oh, I've been in Rwanda for a year and have like a gazillion pictures from there too...- and yes, in case you're wondering, a gazillion IS bigger than a bazillion. But I digress)
Safari was good and for me, not exactly being an animal lover (AWESOME about the lion eating the buffalo...zebra...giraffe would have been just as good), I did enjoy the four days chasing lions and leopards, hippos and girraffes. And did you know that a cheetah is a lazy, lazy cat? Or that an ostrich can run at 70 km/hr? I didn't but thanks to George (aka Georgie), I do now.
Day 1: Lake Manyara and camping in a village on the side of the road. Not too impressed with a stop to tour the village and look at a banana planation and then be asked for 1500 shillings as a tip, though. I politely declined saying that we should have been told about the tip BEFORE our little tour and also, if I wanted to look at mud huts and banana planations, I could for free on the back of a motorbike in Rwanda, thank you very much. But you know those tours.... Animals in the park were great but those hippos really just lay around, don't they?
Day 2 and 3: Serengeti. Camping on the Serengeti and yes, those ARE hyenas laughing just behind our tents but thankfully the cooks made us beef and not chicken (hyena's favourite, apparently). Playing games by the fire, under the starts and full moon, drinking a bottle of wine and listening to the animals in the distance...or not too distance as the hyenas were. Life is good. A bit dirty and dusty driving around looking for animals but good. Very good.
Day 4: Ngorogoro. We didn't see a rhino but Aimey was finally treated to hippos out of the water and we continued to be mesmerized by zebras, lions and wildebeast. Camping was a bit on a chilly side by nothing like almost 6000m of Kilimanjaro
Over all, a great experience and I would never having traded tenting it in the open air for a fancy safari lodge with hot water. Never in a million years. Only a few pictures here but remember....there are a bazillion ore where they came from. Or is it a gazillion?
We're now enjoying the heat and food in Mombasa before heading to Kenya's coast to soak up the sun and get clean in the Indian Ocean. I'm always amazed out different Rwanda feels to the rest of east Africa. The freedom of eating WHEREVER I WANT is great but the trade off, I suppose, is the ubiqitous garbage and plastic bags littering the ground. We bussed it here from Arusha (dirt roads are more comfortable on the back of a bike than in the heat of a lumbering bus through the middle of nowhere) and we'll leave in the comfort of the Kenyan Train line bound for Nairobi in a few days.
Saturday, July 24, 2010
5895 meters of FUN
So…Mount Kilimanjaro? What ev’. No problem….
After a rescheduling flight by Rwandair (a free day at a hotel WITH a pool) we made it to Moshi. The bad news: 8 hours late. The good news: the same flight as Christine who was coming to hike the mountain on the same day as us, but with another company. So we all arrived, visas granted and made our way to the hotel. The next day we met with our GAP person only to find out that hike was not through GAP but through Zara tours (Read: if considering GAP, don’t. Just go directly through Zara because it’s cheaper) and met the gang we’d be hiking with. There was us, a Canadian from Vancouver – Mike, an Irishman – Kevin, and the Schrader family from
To be honest, I started the first two days keeping track of what we saw, what our campsites were like, what the weather was like…then I stopped. We became tired, exhausted and focused on reaching the summit only. Aimey misplaced one camera battery, I thought I didn’t charge my spare and because of the cold weather we took few pictures to conserve the battery power so we’d have a working camera on summit day.
The hiking itself was beautiful. At times our group was alone with no one but our guide, the rocks and the wind. At times Christine would be just behind or just ahead so we’d meet up and encourage each other. Our group was FANTASTIC. Most of them had hiking experience and everyone took the hike seriously. It’s a big mountain, and we knew it. We were encouraging, realistic and happy to be doing this together. Four days later….and we were at the Rooftop of Africa!
Here’s the scoop: we began at 1200m. Four days of hiking later and we were at 4800m and ready to ascent. We arrived at this last base camp at 5pm, dinner at 6pm and to rest. We were woken at 11pm and began hiking the 7 hour hike to the summit at 12:15 am in the black – pitch black. The moon was nearly full and all you could see was the reflection of the glacier in the moon light and a string of headlamps walking, pole, pole up at the dark. At some point, maybe 2am, maybe 3am our water began to freeze, we began to layer more and I began to feel the first affects of altitude. We were so quiet hiking, slowly, slowly. Aimey and I were checking in on each other frequently with a “You doing okay?” My breathing was laboured, I was cold, tired and exhausted. My head lamp was focused on Aimey’s shoes and my eyes never lifted except to sneak the occasional peak at the summit. Eventually the moon disappeared and it was dark. Very dark. But after hiking for what seems like ever and what seemed like five minutes all at the same time….the sun began to rise I knew we were close. I’ll be honest when I say that I would not have made it up without Aimey. At one point I said, “I can’t.” My breathing was heave. There was no oxygen getting in. My legs were done. But she pulled me up and we continued to the ridge, a short 45minute walk to the summit. The sun continued to rise and we began to see people returning from the summit with big smiles, a spring in their step and saying “You’re almost there!”
Okay…now here’s where I get all emotional on you…. My breathing became most difficult when I thought about what this all meant. I am leaving
Of course…we still had to get back down. 6.5 hours up (Aimey’s certificate says she arrived at 6:44am….mine says 6:45am!!! Okay…I know she had to drag me there but come on!) and it was 4.5 hours back down…then an hour nap, lunch and another 4 hours until the next camp. Add it up folks….2 hours of sleep, hiking beginning at midnight, 15 hours of hiking.....8 very tired hikers. But worth it. So worth it.
So, from the rooftop of
Our certificates...our guide thought it was funny to write that Aimey arrived a minute before me. I don't know that it was but I do know that she arrived first, dragging my sorry behind